No. 97 - April 1992

LIFTING MOTOR BRACKET:

 

The chap that moors his Tanzer 7.5 next to mine at the Baie d'Urfe Yacht Club has devised this easy way to lift his motor.

It occurred to me that many of our own Tanzer 22 members might be interested so I asked him to draw a simple diagram. Fortunately, he is an engineer so his drawing is much better than anything that I could possibly draw.

             

He has installed a three part lifting tackle, one end of which is attached to the motor mount and the other to a small teak block bolted to the transom. A couple of small deck eyes are used to fasten each end. Depending on how heavy your own motor is, you may wish to increase the purchase by one, to a four to one. But the principle is the same.

 

In addition, he has installed a two part tilting tackle to make tilting the motor a little easier.

 

If you have one of the older motor mounts which were used until at least sail number 715, you may have experienced a problem with the motor mount dropping down if the boat hits a large wave or receives a sudden jolt. In this case, some form of jam cleat installed on the cockpit coaming might help solve that problem at the same time as making it easier to lift the motor.

 

 

 

 

THE SIMPLICITE FURLER BY JOHN CHARTERS:

 

 

I have seen many furlers over the years, some, in fact most, are very expensive. For a boat our size, you can expect to spend $1,000.00 for one of the better known brands. The question then is, how can a furler that sells for just over $500.00 (Canadian) possibly be any good? How can the manufacturer guarantee all parts for as long as you own your boat?

 

The answer would seem to be hinted at by the very name itself Simplicite. This must be the most simple and uncomplicated furler yet designed. There are no ball (or roller) bearings so there is no need for costly waterproof protection for the drum. Instead, graphite impregnated nylon bushings are used for both the drum and the sections. The drum (or spool) is made of cast aluminum with a baked white enamel finish. As are the sections, which come in five foot lengths. The rest of the rigging is stainless steel and the lines are dacron.

 

After using a Simplicite Furler on #715 for two years I can agree with Ted Boldt (#1836) out in Edmonton, who has had a Furler for three years and has had no trouble whatsoever. He tells me he wouldn't touch one of the more expensive brands. It is his impression that the Simplicite is the least likely of any jam. In his own words, "buying one of the more expensive furlers is like buying a Porche to drive five blocks to the office".

 

As a further inducement to buy a Simplicite Furler, the manufact­urer makes the following offer.

 

"We, herewith, wish to inform you of the development of our enterprise and to solicit your invaluable collaboration, as we strongly believe that the most efficient publicity comes from satisfied customers.

 

Although the reputation of our Simplicite Furler is growing rapidly, we wish to improve the volume of sales without increasing its price. To that effect, we are seeking assistance from our satisfied customers by proposing them to become 'Authorized Sales Representatives' for Enrouleur Simplicite Furleur Reg.

 

Captain, how about becoming an Authorized Representative and getting a $50.00 bonus for each Simplicite Furler sold through your intermediary? The conditions are simple: you only have to convince someone to buy a furler from us. When paying for the new Simplicite Furler, the customer will provide us with the appropriate data on you for verification. Then we will be more than happy to honor our com­mitment and send you your $50.00 bonus by return mail.

 

Obviously, only owners of Simplicite Furlers are eligible to become Authorized Sales representatives for our enterprise.

Finally, we must remind you that our Simplicite Furler warranty remains effective as long as you own your sailboat.

 

Jean-Marc Brien (President)

 

PS: We reserve the right to cancel this offer without further notice.

 

 

TANZER 22 GO FASTS BY DOUG PATTERSON "TARKA" #190:

 

BOAT PREPARATION!

 

If you are really serious about getting the very maximum boat speed and want to get around that race course quick, then you have to start with boat preparation.

 

First and I think one of the most important things is bottom preparation. First the keel, which is probably close to half the wetted area and the hardest to keep smooth due to the rust spots which keep showing up. I spend about a third of Spring maintenance time getting that keel as smooth and fair as possible, but I think the effort is more than worth while once you are on the race course.

 

After the keel is back up to shape (easier said than done!) A good quality anti-fouling paint will help to keep the underwater surfaces clean. I have been using VC 17, which goes on quickly and does not seem to build up in layers. (Besides, the ads say this stuff is supposed to be fast?)

 

I have totally removed all the lifelines, (except for the bow pulpit) not only do they add weight but often interfere with an efficient tack. I also use one continuous sheet with a single looped knot on the genoa which allows the sail to move across the bow a little easier. Try to keep as much weight as possible off the bow including the anchor, which I store in the cockpit locker. Remember not to store anything in the V-berth. Never more than half fill your gas tank. Keep your dinette table in the down position and use the space underneath as storage. Keep tools and spare parts to a minimum and store them as low as possible.

 

Masting your boat should be done with as much precision as pos­sible. Once it's up and secure leaving the inner shrouds disconnected use the outer shrouds to center the mast over the hull. I use the topping lift wire to measure from the top of the mast to the outside of the chain plates. Once you have centered the mast and the outer shrouds are tight, use the inners to straighten the mast. With the boom removed, lie on the deck at the base of the mast and sight up to ensure that it is perfectly straight. I don't have an adjustable backstay so I preset the mast rake so that the top of the mast is slightly aft (four to five inches). I keep enough tension on the forestay and backstay to keep forestay sag to a very minimum.

 

If you have the wrap around genoa cleats, replace them with the large size aluminum jam cleats and the plastic wedge which gives the correct angle from the winch to the cleat. When running your genoa sheets go straight from the genoa fairlead block to the winch, by­passing the aft turning block. This will make for additional wear on your gunwales but makes for a much, much faster release and tack. (When you get hit with a wind shift every second, sailing in the wrong direction really hurts.)

 

SAIL TRIM: GOING FAST UP-WIND!

 

First, if you don't have telltales it is necessary to place three along each side of the luff of your genoa (evenly spaced at about 10 inches in from the forestay) and at each batten pocket along the leech of the mainsail. If you have a spinnaker, telltales on the shrouds and center of your spinnaker pole will help you trim your spinnaker while reaching or running.

 

After you have hoisted your genoa and mainsail (with just enough halyard tension to remove the luff wrinkles, which moves the draft aft, allowing you to point higher) sail a close hauled course, watching the three windward telltales on your genoa. Slowly head into the wind. If the top telltale starts to lift first, then there is too much twist in your sail. Slide your genoa fairlead forward to bring in the top of your sail. If the bottom telltale lifts first, then move the fairlead aft. When all three telltales lift together you will have a perfect airflow along the luff.

 

The next sail to trim is your mainsail, so again sail to a close hauled course with your genoa sheeted in so that it is just touching the outside of your spreader. With just enough halyard tension to remove the luff wrinkles, adjust the outhaul so that when looking up at the sail from the center of the boom the maximum depth or draft is in the middle or slightly aft. The boom vang should be snug but do not over tighten. Adjust the traveler to keep the boom on the center line of the boat. For maximum pointing and speed, trim the mainsheet in while watching the telltales attached to the batten pockets. When the lower three are streaming straight back and the top telltale is stalled or not streaming back, you have what I think is the best set­up for going to windward. You can expect some backwinding from the genoa, this has little effect on your up-wind progress.

When steering the boat to windward, you have to concentrate, really concentrate on those genoa luff telltales. Assuming the genoa fairlead has been adjusted properly, you have only to watch the center telltale. Steer a course so that the leeward telltale is streaming straight aft and the windward is breaking or fluttering. As the wind is constantly shifting, you will have to really concentrate on those telltales. You should never "just hold" the tiller extension. Con­tinually test the leeward telltale by heading up slightly. When it starts to break, hesitate for a couple of seconds before bearing off. As you continue doing this you will find that you will gain position to windward and still maintain good boat speed. I find that sitting on the leeward side, gives enough added visibility and comfort to allow you to really concentrate at the job of going fast up-wind. Sitting to leeward also allows you to watch for those starboard and port tack boats.

 

NOTE FROM THE EDITOR:

 

We should all listen to Doug. He was our 1986 North American Champion as well as our 1991 Canadian and North American Champion. And if I am not mistaken, he has also won our Quebec Championship at least once. In fact, I think he has won everyone of our class cham­pionships at least once, if not more.

 

One of the nice things about the Tanzer 22 Class is that the experts are willing to tab the time to pass on their expertise to the other members. Even at the risk of having some novice to the Class beat them to the finish line. Thank you, Doug, for your "Go Fast" advice.

 

TANZER 22 LIFTING BRIDLE by JOHN CHARTERS

 

For many years I have been using this little known option which used to be offered by Tanzer Industries. It consists of a four and a half inch steel ring to which is swaged two lengths of stainless wire which in turn is fastened with shackles to two lifting plates attached to the forward and aft keel bolts.

The bridle allows a crane or hoist to lift a Tanzer 22 without the need of spreader bars and slings. Moreover, neither the mast nor boom need to be removed.

 

This option is again available from Eric Spencer of Yachting Services - Box 1045, Pointe Claire, QC H9S 4H9 Canada. (514) 697-­6952. Eric has improved on the original design, instead of a circular ring which deformed slightly when first used and tended to induce heart failure in owners, he now provides a 7/8" pear shaped ring. The stainless steel wire is now 5/16" instead of 1/4" The bridle is asymmetrical so that the boat maintains a level attitude during lift­ing. If interested, contact Eric while your boat is out of the water, as the lifting plates can not be installed while the boat is in the water.

 

FARING THE KEEL BY DAVE RYAN 1223:

 

I have used two methods of faring my keel. At first I used Marine-Tex which has held up for over ten years but is very difficult to sand so use it sparingly. I have also used West System Epoxy with their 407 filler. It has been two years and shows no sign of deterioration; but two years is not a good test. I was cautioned about not using body putty when I opted for the Marine-Tex but I don't recall the reason it was not recommended. Cleaning the area to be fared I believe is the secret. Marine-Tex is available in small containers and can also be used for gelcoat chips. I guess I'd recommend it but the West System concept has many uses as well.

 

POR-15 BY JOHN CHARTERS

 

In an earlier Newsletter I discussed POR-15 along with several other rust preventive products. One of those mentioned was Corroless.

 

As a result of this article I received a letter from Mr. Thomas Slutsker, President of POR-15 Inc. He goes on to explain that samples of steel left out in the weather do not properly determine the quality of a rust prevention product. The strength of the coating, the durability and toughness are as important as the product itself. If a coating is easily abraded through friction or scratching, all protection is lost at that point.

 

Corroless is such a product. It has little strength or resistance to normal every day wear and is easily abraded. His customers have told him over the years that topcoat paints do not adhere to it easily.

 

Many of their present customers tried it before switching to POR-15.

 

RED BARON VI AND HER KEEL! BY JOHN CHARTERS:

 

I should listen to my own advice. Really! How many times have you heard me say "if it ain't broke - don't fix it!"? Once? Twice? a half dozen? No matter - it is one of my favorite expressions.

I was given a tin of POR-15 to try. My original intention was to use it on the keel of the boat I keep here at home. The boat that is kept in fresh water. However, upon inspection, the keel of that boat was in pretty good condition with very little rust showing. I decided to give POR-15 a chance on my boat that is kept in Maine and in salt water.

 

And this is where I should have paid attention to my own advice and left well enough alone. A few little rust spots were showing, nothing very much. What I should have done was patch those few rust spots and let someone else try the POR-15. But no, I decided to grind the keel back to bare metal and really do a job. I started on the port side and found under the antifouling paint, a heavy layer of filler. And finally, when I did reach bare metal, I found a surface that looked more like the craters on the moon than a smooth keel.

 

Just about this time, I decided to forget about grinding down the entire keel and to concentrate on those areas where rust showed. But each tiny little spot ended up being a big spot. Then each was given two coats of POR-15, trying to follow the manufactures directions as closely as possible with the air temperature around the 45 degree mark. The local hardware store had a special on body filler so that is what I used to fair the keel. Except my attempts at faring were not nearly as good as the original.

 

Then finally, a coat of Interlux's Fiberglas Bottomkote, which seems to work even better than their Micron CSC.

 

Now, to answer the next question, how easy is POR-15 to apply?

Goes on just like any other paint. Mind you, the manufacturer strongly suggests you "spoon" out enough POR-IS into a separate container for the job at hand. And not pour back any left over POR-15 into the original can. Otherwise the shelf life of the remaining paint will be substantially shortened. Further, one is warned that if any POR is spilled in the groove of the paint tin it will bond the lid to the tin and you will not be able to re-open the can. If you do get some paint in this groove, you will have to put a sheet of plastic between the groove and the lid.

The manufacturer also warns that once on, it is nearly impossible to remove POR-15. So don't get it on your hands! I did and they are quite right! You'll have to wait until it wears off.

 

One thing I do know, it dries to the hardest finish I have ever seen for a paint. Which should form a good barrier between keel and underwater rocks. Again, I will have to wait until haul out to properly asses the value of POR-15

 

CENTERBOARD FROM GEORGE YOUNG #192:

 

George has one of the early Tanzer 22s - with an aluminum center­board. And like other members with the aluminum board and even those with the iron board, he has sometimes experienced problems with the board sticking in the keel. He now has the problem pretty well licked. He does two things.

 

His first piece of advice is "when in doubt, lubricate". Meaning a heavy coat of marine bearing grease on both sides of the center­board. Before applying the grease, the board should be cleaned to bare metal.

 

And secondly, George has drilled a 3/8" hole near the trailing edge of the board and has fitted it with a 3/8" brass bolt about four inches long so as to prevent the board from completely retracting. One slight disadvantage is the bolt must be removed before winter storage so as to be able to fully retract the board to allow the boat to rest on the bottom of the keel.

 

George sails on the Great Lakes so he doesn't have the salt water problems some folks seem to have. But he does have Zebra Mussels!

 

So far his copper anti-fouling bottom paint appears to keep them off the hull. Besides clogging the water intakes, etc., the little creatures are water filters. The lake water is the clearest he has seen in over 65 years of sailing.

 

However, this is a real disadvantage in as much as they are depleting the food source for small fish and the water clarity is allowing sunlight to reach the bottom causing acute weed growth.

 

As George says, "it is impossible to fight mother Nature - so why worry?"

 

He keeps accurate records. Last season he used the boat over 70 times! Usually with guests aboard. Over 100 last year. His season stretches from 1 May to 1 November.

 

MORE ON THE SIMPLICITE FURLER BY JOHN CHARTERS:

 

With Spring and launching fast approaching and with check book in hand, I visited Mr. Jean-Marc Brien, the President of the Simlicite Furler Company. I came away with the drum, sections and all the hardware needed for a boat the size of the Tanzer 22. $525.00 plus tax. I must say, I was most impressed, not only with the Simplicite furler, but also by Mr. Brien. Who, by the way, has owned 30 sailboats during his lifetime, from the smallest dinghy when only a child and now a Bayfield 25.

 

Some years ago he wanted a furler on his sailboat but was discouraged by the high price, well over $1,000.00 for even the cheapest. He made his own from from a few bits of pipe and some rope. Over the years he has refined the design. The sections are now extruded aluminum and the bushings are graphite impregnated nylon. The kit comes complete with all the hardware needed including blocks, fairleads, fasteners and 85 feet of dacron line. Plus complete in­structions.

 

This furler is for the Tanzer 22 I keep in Maine. Much as my wife and I enjoy cruising the Maine coast, neither one of us likes to be on the foredeck wrestling with the genoa when it starts to blow. And in any case, Red Baron VI is just about the only boat in Maine without a furling headsail - we feel like poor country cousins.

 

Installation is easy. The packaging is very well done, each component is taped together separately and all fittings come with the appropriate mounting screws. Even a cleat for the furling line. The bushings are each in two halves, with a small pilot hole pre-drilled. You are required to drill the proper size hole for the size of your forestay - 1/16" larger. A short section of the foil section is pro­vided to hold these two halves to simplify drilling.

 

For most of the time I was working by myself. Given a helper I think the whole operation shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. Tools needed: A variable speed electric drill (to drill the bushings), hacksaw (to cut the last aluminum section to length, a Phillips head screwdriver and a couple of small wrenches (to adjust the stoppers). Plus two or three saw horses to rest the mast on while doing the installation.

 

It cost me about $75.00 to have a luff tape sewn on the Genoa.

A couple of weeks after installing the furler, Red Baron was launched and we had a chance to tryout the Simplicite. How does it work? Just fine! Mind you, like all furlers, one has to be careful when using to keep tension on both the jib sheets and the furling line, otherwise there is a chance of getting things snarled up. And in particular, the main halyard must be tight (main up or down) or it will be caught in the furled jib. This is not a fault with the Simplicite, any boat that has external halyards (like the Tanzer 22) would have this problem with any furler.

 

The Simplicite has it's own halyard, and one is supposed to raise the genoa using this halyard, then cut off the excess line. Not covered in the instructions, but if one wants to lower the jib or genoa at a later date, it is necessary to attach a length of line to the halyard, long enough to reach to the top. (As a result of this article, the instructions now include the above.) Then, lower the sail, leaving this extra line cleated to the base of the drum, ready to hoist the sail when needed.

It works! And what more can one ask of anything. And does it ever make single or short handed sailing easy. Now the only time I need to go on deck is to anchor. I have more or less perfected my single line jiffy that leads back to the cockpit and the main halyard has been led aft for some time now. I am using the undersize genoa that came with the boat and had to local sail loft (Bohndell) install a tape luff ($3.00/ft.). It is a bit on the light side for a furling jib so I am reluctant to use it any more than half furled. The ideal sail would be almost as heavy as the main, with a foam luff to give a better shape to the sail when partially furled. Most sailmakers today are more than familiar with furling headsails and can design one using different cloth weights so the sail can be used as a number one all the way down to a storm jib.

The Simplicite manufacturer has re-designed the foil since I bought mine, the new one is slightly larger and perhaps a bit on the big side for a Tanzer 22, but if you don't mind a little overkill, it should work fine.

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