No. 96 - February 1992

ARDEN WAITE'S REMOVABLE FORESTAY:

 

Recently, more and more Tanzer 22 sailors have been fitting their boats with jib or genoa furling gear. Early fullers were prone to failure newer models seem to be able to function under all con­ditions and are virtually trouble free.

 

But what do you do if you want to set a working jib or storm jib? You can, as some do, have all headsails fitted with a luff tape. Then when a different headsail is needed, down comes one and up goes the other. But that is a cumbersome arrangement. Or, you can have foam luffs fitted to your genoa with the hope that the genoa will set properly when partially furled. Even that is a compromise - it is nearly impossible to design a #1 genoa that can be used all the way down to a storm jib.

 

Arden Waite has another solution. A removable forestay. When not needed, it is fastened to the front of the mast. He runs the wire through a small block at the base of the mast, then up to a fitting on the mast. When needed, the "new" forestay is unclipped from the mast, the block unhooked from the base and the entire rig carried forward and fastened to the aft hole on the stem head fitting. Ready for the jib to be hanked on to.

 

TED BOLDT'S NEW HATCH:

 

Ted Boldt sails his keel C/B Tanzer 22 #1863 "Yachet IV" out of Sunshine Bay Yacht Club.

 

Ted has replaced the teak drop boards with a smoked acrylic drop board. He used a high impact acrylic, 3/8" thick. He still uses the original locking hardware and has re-installed one of the louver vents. Ted says the increased light and improved atmosphere in the cabin is well worth the effort.

 

Ted has also mounted a forward traveler which frees up the cockpit from being divided by a central traveler. To avoid tripping over it when entering or leaving the cabin, Ted made a teak step, about 10" wide, which also doubles as a seat.

 

MORE ON RUST PREVENTION:

 

Class member, John Guidera, sent in a copy of a recent issue of "Skinned Knuckles - a Journal of Car Restoration". I hadn't thought of it before, but it is obvious, those involved in antique car res­toration, must face an enormous problem with rust. Since May of 1988, Skinned Knuckles has been involved in detailed research and testing of rust preventative product available in the US.

One of the problems facing those involved with the testing is that some of the products applied to sample steel pieces three and a half years ago, are no longer available. An exception is POR-15, mentioned in our October Newsletter. Some of the early products tested are still available, however one cannot be certain that the same formula is presently used.

 

The article goes on to mention that these rust prevention products fall into three classes - intended to do three different things. Most of the products tested were "conversion coatings", designed to be applied over existing rust and to convert this rust to a stable form, ready for painting. "Extend" is one such product.

 

The second type of products is described as "fortified slow dry Slow dry enamels" Slow dry enamels that penetrate containing anti-corrosion additives."Rustoleum" and "Tremclad" fall into this category.

 

Thirdly, are the "moisture cure urethane" products. Like POR-15.

These products work by penetrating rust, then curing into a hard, im­penetrable film. POR-15 is cured by moisture in the air as well as moisture in the rust. This moisture leaching deprives the metal under the coating of any moisture that might cause future rusting. This prevents the coating from being "lifted" by new rust forming under it.

 

The writer takes care to explain how the test were done along with photographs of each test piece of steel. After three and a half years, POR-15 was rated very good, surpassed only by "Corroless", which is rated excellent. Many of the other products were rated poor to terrible. A few were rated average.

 

INSURANCE - CAVEAT EMPTOR BY JOHN CHARTERS:

 

If you are like most of us, when you first bought your Tanzer 22, you phoned up your insurance agent and asked him to cover you for whatever he thought you needed. I doubt if one in a hundred ever stops to read the fine print.

 

You probably think your policy covers your boat for what is known in the industry as "replacement value". If you are unlucky enough to have a total loss (Hurricane Bob) you expect to get a check from your insurance company for whatever amount the boat is insured for. NOT NECESSARILY SO! Many marine policies are like your car policy, the boat is depreciated every year and the time your beloved Tanzer 22 is 10 years old, you will be lucky to get a check for two or three thous­and dollars if you have a total loss.

 

I talked this over with my own insurance agent, who is a recognized expert in the field of marine insurance. Not only is he an accomplished yachtsman, with many Atlantic crossings, but has sailed for Canada in the Olympics. He knows sailboats and he knows in­surance. His company does cover the boat for the full replacement value. That is, if the declared value of your boat on the policy is $15,000.00 - you get $15,000.00 if you boat is a total loss. Period! No hassle, no fuss.

 

He went on to explain some of the other "tricks of the trade".

Some companies will tell you the deductible on electronics is only $100.00. Oh wow! That is much better than the standard $250.00 deductible. But wait! To get at your $180.00 depth sounder the thief has to break the hatch open. And while he is in boat, he also lifts some your other non-electric equipment. The insurance company will pay you $80.00 for the depth sounder ($180.00 less the $100.00 deductible) and deduct another $250.00 for the damage to the hatch and whatever else is stolen. What you really have is a $350.00 deductible policy. Before you renew next year, ask some questions. Are you getting what you are paying for? And are you getting the coverage you want?

 

HOW MUCH IS YOUR BOAT WORTH? - BY JOHN CHARTERS:

 

Back in the good old days (read 1970) used boats appreciate in value along with the ever increasing cost of boats. A Tanzer 22 was even considered an investment. And although the appreciation of a used Tanzer 22 didn't quite keep pace to the cost of a new Tanzer, it wasn't far behind. I recall, when I worked for Tanzer Industries, hearing prospective buyers moan that they could not afford a used Tanzer 22, so they had decided to buy a new one.

That may sound fanciful but it was true. A well equipped one or two year old Tanzer 22 was selling (Canadian) somewhere in the 14 thousands. A new, bare Tanzer 22 was only $12,500.00! Granted, the used boat probably had a replacement value of over $18,000.00 with all the extra equipment. But somehow, it seemed to make more sense to buy a brand new boat with only a few extras. And have the fun of plan­ning the upgrade of equipment over the next few years.

 

Back to the opening question. How much is your boat worth? Not as much as you might think. I heard of one going for $2,000.00 in the United States the other day. $5,000.00 is not unusual. In Canada we generally do a little better. But don't forget the Canadian dollar is some 15% below the US dollar. If you are lucky you might get $10,000.00. Eight or nine is probably closer to the mark.

 

Which brings us to the next question. How much should you spend to upgrade your boat? Depends. If you plan on keeping it for a long time, then spend as much as you wish. The added enjoyment will be worth every penny. But if you plan on moving up to a larger boat couple of years - don't spend too much.

 

Because you will never get back your investment in a million years. No matter how many bags of sails you have. No matter how many electronic gadgets you have. No matter how many fancy bits of hard­ware you have, you will be lucky if your boat fetches even a few hundreds of dollars more than another Tanzer 22, of similar age but with modest equipment.

 

You may be able to convince your wife you'll get every cent back when you sell, but you won't convince the buyer!

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