No. 92 - April 1991

MOORINGS BY JOHN CHARTERS:


Several issues ago, I asked for members to let us know what kind of moorings they used to moor their Tanzer 22s. Here are their suggestions.

 

 

From Dick Besse: For several years the Sailboat Shop, Skaneataeles has made and used 1400lb. concrete cakes for mooring Tanzers and up to 25 footers. A cylinder three feet in diameter and about 20 inches high. We use sheet metal forms which are reusable. Chain is buried in the center for an attachment point. To move them we pick up with an "A frame" and come-along, trailer and on water a pontoon boat carries the mooring underwater winched up between the pontoons under the deck. A Tanzer 22 would float one too, If the transfer could be made.

 

Underwater the cake has enough weight and suction to hold a Tanzer 22 in our 15 mile long lake's strong winds and steep seas, with as little as four feet of extra chain scope to the buoy in 20 feet of water. The chain never fouls itself on this mooring cake.

 

For buoys we now prefer the inflated vinyl. Like "Polyform" and float the mooring lines with tubular foam pipe insulation to prevent fouling the buoy. Finally, to facilitate pick up of the mooring upon return, we recommend a pick-up buoy, a Fiberglas mast, six feet with a football sized foam float and counterweight, attached to the Tanzer end of the mooring painter before casting off.

 

From Ronald Culp: At the Grand Traverse yacht Club, located at the base of West Bay, Traverse City, MI, we have approval for 17 moorings for boats up to 35 feet. Danforth anchors are used. They are attached to a heavy chain which then leads to the mooring pennants. We have never had a failure and they can be moved easily if it becomes necessary.

From Guy Legault: What Guy uses is three 8 lb. Danforth Standard (8S) anchors, with ten feet of 3/8 inch galvanized chain attached to each anchor. Plus three 1/2 inch nylon pennants, each 25 feet long. The anchors are laid out more or less in a triangle, the three nylon pennants meeting in the center and attached to a four inch swivel hook.

A 12 inch inflatable mooring buoy is attached to this swivel hook with a ten foot galvanized, 3/8" chain. The mooring pennant for the boat is a 20 foot long, 1/2" floating polypropylene line.

 


 

 

 

The depth of water is six to eight feet and the bottom is a mixture of sand and clay. Guy has used this method since 1976 - the chain was changed in 1986 and the pennants in 1982. One person can lay and retrieve the anchors without assistance and the whole mooring system is kept in a 15 gallon garbage pail.

 

This mooring has withstood several bad storms including winds of up to 60 MPH.

 

From Carl Shook: Although I have a marine railway, I also have a mooring which I leave the boat on when we at the cottage. The mooring block is a 1940 vintage in-line six cylinder automobile engine with automatic transmission still attached. I would guess the total weight is in the order of 400 lb. give or take. The mooring is in about five feet of water.

 

A 20 foot length of 3/8" hot dip galvanized chain is attached to the engine with a 1/2" shackle and swivel. The mooring float is a beer ball filled with styrofoam and painted white.

 

About seven feet from the block, a 15 to 20 pound block of concrete is attached to the chain with a swivel. About a foot below the float, a two foot length of 3/8" chain is attached to the long chain with a swivel. Two ten foot lengths of 1/2" nylon rope are shackled to the other end of the short chain. The lines have loops spliced in the other ends. They are passed over the Tanzer 22's bow cleat.

 

I don't recall winds of more than 30 to 35 mph with higher gusts while the boat was on the mooring. However, as we are on the East side of the lake, this is frequently the lee shore. With three miles of fetch, the water gets quite rough.

 

I have watched the action of this array from under water during stiff winds and rough water. For the most part, the weight of the chain restrains the boat. This make for a very gentle moor.

Once in a while, the chain will attempt to lift the concrete weight. This is more than enough to draw the boat back.

 

My opinion is that there are probably three factors that add to the success of this or any mooring. First, the block has many pro­trusions that tend to dig into the bottom. Second, there is enough scope so that any force on the block is horizontal rather than vertical. Third, the additional concrete weight increases the effective scope. Also, it certainly doesn't hurt that the block is lying in rocks whose diameter range from about six to 16 inches.

 

From Chuck Hanson: In order to test four safety wires this past summer I did the following. I tightly wrapped #20 316 stainless steel, #20 galvanized steel, 20 plain copper wire and a 1/8" X 1/32" nylon tie wrap - all wrapped around a new galvanized shackle and fastened to the ring under the mooring buoy and was in place from 7 April till 3 November. Results: The stainless steel wire showed no corrosion. The galvanized wire was gone and the copper wire had some green oxidation and was down to 0.01 in some places. The plastic tie wrap was intact, but had numerous cracks and the surface was beginning to get powdery. Conclusion: Based on these tests, stainless steel is the only material which is acceptable for mooring tackle safety wire.

 

 

 


SERVICE DEPARTMENT BY JOHN CHARTERS:

As our boats get older, early ones are approaching their 21st birthday, some components may need replacing. The ports, for example. If the acrylic (Plexiglas) inserts are beyond salvage, the only course open may be to replace the old with the new.

 

The inserts, exterior spline and/or interior sponge replacement may be carried out with the port frames in situ. Alternatively, the port frames may be removed and the work carried out at home.

 

If you decide to remove the frames, remove screws and retain.

Then cut the caulking around frames with a sharp knife. Remove interior trim - either aluminum or white vinyl and pry out exterior frames. All old caulking should be removed. Clean up with acetone. Each port frame and aperture should be numbered so each frame is reinstalled in the opening from which it was removed and ensure that the existing screw holes around openings match those in each frame.

 

To remove exterior spline, locate and pry out one end. Pull out all of the old spline from between the frame and the acrylic insert.

 

The old acrylic insert may then be removed. Also remove the old interior sponge rubber. Clean the outside face of the interior flange with scraper and acetone. This flange should then be smeared with a thin coating of clear silicone. Install new sponge with dry side to flange and cut to correct length.

 

Peel off protective paper from new acrylic inserts and from sponge. Press insert firmly into frame.

 

To install exterior spline, locate one end at the top center of port frame. Push the edge of the spline with the groove between the acrylic and the frame with the groove facing outboard making sure the edge of the frame is recessed in the groove. Push in the spline all around the frame and cut the correct length only when close to other end. The ends of the spline should butt closely together.

 

Before re-installing frames, place a generous bead of white silicone on the inside face of the frame flange and press frame into its original opening. Secure with original screws then, with a finger tip smooth excess silicone around the edge of the frame making sure there are no cavities in the silicone. Re-install interior trim.

 

You may be able to find a local supplier for the acrylic and even the sponge rubber. Probably the only source for the splines is Eric Spencer of Yachting Services.

 

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