No. 108 - June 1994

SOME USEFUL MEASUREMENTS AND SPECIFICATIONS  

 

Forestay (5/32" X 1X19) Turnbuckle 2/3 open + Toggle = 26' 6 3/8"

Backstay (5/32" X 1X19) Turnbuckle 1/3 open + Toggle = 30' 7 1/4"

Upperstays (5/32" X 1X19) Turnbuckle 2/3 open + Toggle = 17' 1 7/8"

Lowerstays (5/32" X 1X19) turnbuckle 1/2 open + Toggle = 13' 8 1/8"

Main Halyard (3/32" X 7X7) Shackle to Thimble = 25' 9"

Rope Tail = 5/16" X 28'

Jib Halyard (1/8" X 7X19) Shackle to Thimble = 25' 9" Rope Tail = 5/16" X 28'

Topping Lift (3/32" X 1X19) Thimble to Thimble = 25' Spinnaker Halyard = 5/16" X 68'

Spinnaker Pole Uphaul = 5/16" X 35' Spinnaker Pole Downhaul = 5/16" X 25'

Spinnaker Sheets = 5/16" X 45'

Main Sheet = 3/8" X 60'

Genoa Sheet = 7/16" X 68'

Jib Sheet = 3/8" X 50'

Boom Vang = 5/16" X 21'

Jiffy Reefing Rope = 1/4" X 20'

Spinnaker Pole = 8' 9"

Flag Halyard to Masthead = 1/8" X 40' Flag Halyard to Spreaders = 1/8" X 28'

 

Cordage should be pre-stressed Dacron, three strand or braided with braided preferred for all sheets

 

CENTERBOARD BY GLEN CAMPBELL - FLIN FLON - MANITOBA:

 

One of the problems I have encountered is getting at the board to refurbish it. Being in an isolated area with no marina liftouts or hoists, I have only done this twice in the past 20 years. Two years ago was my last keel overhaul and this is what I did.

 

After raising the boat in a machine shop, we removed the trailer and blocked up the hull, especially the keel at each end to take the weight off the hull. Don't place blocks over the slot opening as you need room to take the board out.

 

I dug out the wood plug where the pin is located on the keel casing. Using a heavy mallet and a brass punch we drove the pin out. The punch I used was a little smaller in diameter than the pin. This required some heavy mallet blows to free the pin and allow the CB to drop down.

 

After sand blasting the board we used auto body putty to fill the imperfections and to fair it. Next, we brushed on three coats of VC Tar Epoxy and then finished it with antifouling paint.

 

The centerboard slapping has always bothered me. While refurb­ishing it this time, I found that the hole for the pin in the CB was too large and was rounded at the openings. We re-drilled this hole and inserted a bronze silicon bushing into the CB where the pin fits.

 

Tightening this play eliminated the centerboard slap. We have no problems with raising and lowering the board probably because we live and sail in fresh water where there is no pollution to speak of.

 

SOME THOUGHTS FROM CHUCK HANSEN - TINTON FALLS NJ:

 

You asked for experience with two Tanzer 22 problems centerboard replacement and lee helm. I have had both on "Sejlboad".

 

CENTERBOARD: After I noticed a significant up-down motion in the forward part of my centerboard, I had the centerboard replaced in 1985 using the factory aluminum CB (used in the early Tanzer 22s). The trunk liner was swelled and tattered and had to be cut out before the pivot pin could be accessed and cut off on each side. This ragged liner was probably the reason the CB jammed in the up position so often. Once removed, we could see that the centerboard had a slot worn in it several inches long - another season and it probably would have worn through and become an anchor. There was no evidence of the plastic sleeve reportedly used between the pin and the CB.

 

Incidentally, everywhere that aluminum was used underwater, it eventually corroded. The CB cable tube developed a leak during launch in 1990. Fortunately, it was still in the slings and we hauled it back out before the hull filled with water. It was replaced with a PVC tube. I don't know if the cockpit drain tubes were lined with aluminum but last year they had to be reglassed after leaks developed.

 

Anyway, drilling the old CB pivot pin out was the same onerous task as described by Len Sairs. We replaced the pin with a stainless bolt, epoxied the nut in place and ground off the excess bolt threads. I can't wait to replace the CB again in 1999!

 

LEE HELM: When I bought *91 in 1980, the first thing I noticed was the lee helm in light to medium air. The folks at Monmouth sail­ing Center added two bronze toggles in the forestay and shortened the backstay, which balanced the boat well and produced the more common weather helm as the wind picked up. Raking the mast aft moves the center of effort backward and down as the boom end becomes closer to the deck.

 

Over the years I experimented with the boat to see if the amount of lee/weather helm could be changed with sail trim, weight, heel, etc. I found I could produce lee helm condition in three ways.

 

In light air, the boat doesn't heel to leeward much and passengers don't tend to scramble to the high windward side of the boat. If the weight distribution is such that the boat ends up heeling to windward rather than to the more normal leeward side, the boat will bear off to leeward. This is because more hull area is exposed to the water on the windward (heeling) side than on the leeward side. The water flow over this asymmetrical hull shape forces the bow to leeward.

 

Next, the CB version of the Tanzer 22 seems more sensitive to headsail area than the fin keel Tanzer 22 and some of the other boats in her size such as the Hunter and Catalina. There is no way I can comfortably sail with only the headsail, as I have done in some other boats. At the time I bought #91, it had a furling 150% genoa. If the headsail was even slightly over trimmed, the boat would react by quickly rounding away to leeward. In any boat, if the sail area is far forward of the keel location, the bow will be blown away from the wind, like a weathervane in reverse, but the Tanzer 22 version seems more susceptible. It is also a more responsive boat than the other makes. I had the headsail recut to 135\ and the problem went away.

 

Finally, if weight is moved aft, the stern digs in and the bow lifts. The lateral resistance of the hull with respect to the force on the sails moves aft and the headsail becomes more effective, as if its area had been increased. This will tend to turn the boat to leeward. Unless your lockers are full of some really heavy stuff, or everyone is perched on the stern rail, this is not a very pronounced effect since weight shifts are a small percentage of the total boat weight.

 

What did not seem to effect the lee/windward helm very much was the position of the centerboard. On the Catalina 22 (with a much heavier centerboard), the lateral resistance can be noticeably changed by the angle in which the CB is raised. The most positive effect on the Tanzer 22s balance was gained by using the new rudder. I recommend it highly.

 

LOOKING BACK BY FRED FAGAN - SISTIANA #149:

 

Ever wonder what would happen if your Tanzer 22 took a big one over the transom? With its roomy cockpit (that we all love so much), as well as the low threshold of its companionway, pooping is a major concern. And from all I've read, the two puny cockpit drains are less than adequate for their intended purpose in the face of that ultimate boarding wave.

 

What I have done, is to install two 1 1/2" scuppers to each side of the back wall of the cockpit. This location results in a straight pass directly through to the transom. the outlets are about two inches below the inlets. I used very stiff, heavy duty vinyl hose, 3M's 15200 adhesive-sealant and Marelon through-hulls. The fit is so tight that I had to mount the hose over the first through hull before installing the second one. And while hose clamps probably weren't necessary because of the tight squeeze, two were used on each fitting.

 

What about draining the last couple of inches of water from the cockpit? That's not what concerns me - it's the first ten or twelve inches that cause me to worry. Besides, the existing drains will take care of an inch or two of water coming over the side, along with any that may slosh into the scuppers from a following sea.

 

Two eight inch Beckson deck plates (screw type) provide easy access to the hard-to-reach space under the aft seat. Here I've located a six gallon Tempo plastic gas tank. . Nestled between the scupper hoses, its molded-in partition is wedged astride the plywood rib that runs down the center of the bilge. It's held in place by one of those heavy, black rubber straps. One "s" hook goes through a hole drilled in the plywood rib and the other is hooked over an eye strap that is very conveniently mounted to the inside of the transom using the same bolts that hold the lower gudgeon. Incidentally, a three gallon tank will fit just as well. In either case, the filler opening should be directly below the seat-top deck plate.

 

Finally, I have installed a Whale Titan manual bilge pump mounted on the face of the port seat, just aft of the cockpit hatch. The in­let leads from a "Y" valve located just inside the lazarette hatch. One leg of the "y" leads to a strum box in the bottom of the cockpit locker; the other goes to a through-hull in the bulk head between the lazarette and the cabin. Either space can be bailed from the relative comfort of the cockpit!

 

CENTERBOARD SOLUTION FROM FRANK LICARI #2143:


Frank has sent us the method he uses to free up a stuck center­board. The diagrams are more or less self-explanatory but possibly a little description will help.

 

First, select a point as far aft as possible on the centerboard blade. Drill (17/32") and tap 5/8" - 11 hole perpendicular to the edge to a depth of one inch as shown by the arrow on the first diagram. (next page) A coarse thread was selected because of the composition of the blade material.

 

A 5/8" - 11 threaded rod is screwed into the centerboard blade, this rod should be long enough to enter the blade full depth of threads and extend as shown in the second diagram.

 

Install a 5/8" flat washer and a 5/8" - 11 hex nut as shown. Diagram #2 shows a cross section of steel bars, 1" X 1" and about two inches long to act as spacers. A 1/2" or 3/4" bar (two are needed) to bridge across the bars.

 

Both sides of the flat washer should be greased and when every­thing is in place, tighten the hex nut to move the blade. It should yield. If it doesn't, remove the centerboard pin. (No lost effort because it must come out eventually to remove rust on blade and keel slot.)

 

Add spacers as needed to gain further movement of the blade.

After the centerboard has been freed, spacers may be hard wood.

After the board has been ground and cleaned, re-insert the threaded rod into the threaded hole and cut it flush to the blade's edge. Then file the cut end to fair with the blade's edge.

 

Paint all surfaces (POR 15 or Pettit's Rust-Lock) and re-insert the hinge pin. Expect several years of trouble free service.

 

Editors note: One member wrote in a while back to suggest a "slot" be cut in the bed of the boat's cradle to allow the centerboard to drop free of the keel, during storage. If the cradle is mounted on cement blocks this should allow the board to protrude a fair amount. It seems it is during storage, with the board fully retracted, that there is the greatest risk of rust jamming up that board.

 

 

 

LIKE NEW? BY JOHN CHARTERS:

 

I was admiring the red stripe on a Tanzer 22 at our Yacht Club. The boat was a 1976 model and both sheer and boot stripe looked like new.

 

More or less to myself I remarked, "he must have painted his stripes". My remark was overheard by another member who said, "no, he didn't paint them, he used a color restorer".

 

As I am always on the lookout for new products and gadgets, I asked for further information.

 

And this is what I found! Sure enough, there is a liquid on market, specifically designed to restore the color of gelcoat. Made by Mequiar's - Mirror Glaze 44 Heavy Duty Color Restorer.

 

The next day I bought a 16 fl oz. of the stuff. $10.95. Is it a miracle product? No, of course not. If your gelcoat is all scratched and badly faded, nothing short of a re-paint job will make it look like new. But, it does perk up a colored hull or sheer stripe - not quite like new, but does do a surprisingly good job.

 

I have a black sheer stripe on Red Baron (the hull was re-painted red three years ago) which was showing definite signs of wear. One application of 144 made a noticeable difference. The scratches are still there, but the overall improvement was worth the $10.95.

 

A final coat of wax to seal the gelcoat, was all that was needed. Now the sheer stripe looks almost as good as the rest of the boat.

 

 

*

This brings us to the end of Compendium V. Many thanks to all those members that have sent in their suggestions and ideas that have helped to make this compendium possible. Without you, there would be no compendiums for future Tanzer 22 owners to read and enjoy.

 

 

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