No. 105 - December 1993

FROM FRANK MARTENS - SUMMERLAND, B.C. - #2002:

 

I wrote nearly two years ago asking for information about furlers. Since then, on the basis of comparisons among boat owners on Lake Okanagan and British Columbia's coast, I opted for a Furlers. Very expensive! By the time I had modified my #2 genoa and added some leads to the mainsail to make it easier for a one man operation, the price was close to $1,400.00, with the Furlex itself coming in at $1,100.00. With the help of my adult son I took down the mast (no problem), put together the new forestay with luff extrusion tubing, hooked everything together, raised the mast, inserted and raised the modified genoa and away we went. Amazing device! So far (two summers) it has worked very well. It has been, beyond a doubt, one of my wisest investments. And to those Tanzer owners who don't have a furling device of one brand or another, I would most heartily recommend one. I'm retired now (to an eight acre orchard) and cannot always find company to sail when the wind comes up. So I frequently go alone and have no trouble handling the boat in any kind of weather.

 

FROM ROBERT FEELER - STEVENSVILLE, MD:

 

While getting the boat back in shape, I came up with a couple of items which might be of interest to other owners.

 

The tiller pivot hole in the rudder was "wallowed out" quite a bit and resulted in a lot of play. I bought a nylon hose nipple with a 3/8 inch inside diameter that is 1 5/8 inches long. It cost 45 cents at a local farm supply store. The outside is serrated with the tips of the serrations being just over 1/2 inch in diameter. I cut the nipple in half and filed off some of the serrations tips, drilled the rudder hole out to 1/2 inch and forced the nylon bushing in from each side. It seems to have worked well and should protect the Fiberglas from wearing as the steel bolt now rides in the nylon insert.

 

To provide a convenient place to hold a cup or can while underway, I took a four inch teak board and routed the ends to match the hatch slide taper and recesses. This slides down to the bottom and provided a place to mount two fold-up cup holders, plus a nice space in the center for a bubble heel indicator. Being only four inches high, it is not in the way stepping in or out of the cabin. At the dock, the holders fold flat and the board is easy to stow inside while the hatch covers are in place.

 

Wanting a compass but not willing to clutter the cockpit with one of the "bowling ball" types or cut a hole in the bulkhead, we found a very nice unit made in Sweden, a Silva Model 70. In the States, it is available from Boat/US for about $75.00. It is essentially a hand held unit with a mounting bracket. Using a little teak wedge to correct for the slant of the bulkhead, I mounted it next to the hatch entry. It is easy to read, well dampened and can be stowed away when not required. There is also a self illuminated (tritium irradiation) model, but it was not available here. (Maybe the nuclear gurus won't allow it.)

 

FROM NILS W. WESSEL - CHEBEAGUE ISLAND, ME:

 

On preparing the keel for spring launching, I have one suggestion that you or your colleagues may reject for one reason or other. I give the keel only the briefest wire brushing (five to ten minutes) and then paint it with Rustoleum, which dries quickly. Then I apply bottom paint over it as part of painting below the waterline. This approach was recommended to me 15 years ago for the centerboard of my Lightning. Neither it nor the Tanzer keel have shown the slightest visible corrosion. Unless bad things are happening unbeknownst to me, this treatment is highly effective and a great deal easier than power sanding down to raw metal, priming and so forth.

 

IDEAS TO MAKE CRUISING EASIER by PAT & JANET CLAYTON - MIDDLETOWN, RI


We started cruising in 1977, when our older son was one year old and have tried to get in a cruise, from four to 16 days in length, yearly since then. Our two sons are now both about six feet tall, but we are still managing to cruise together on the Tanzer 22. Over several years, we discovered various things to do to make cruising easier and are finally getting around to passing some of those ideas on for others to use or adapt, if they wish. If you have questions, please feel welcome to write or call. (Pat & Janet Clayton, 6 Granada Terrace, Middletown, RI 02842-4949, 401 849-3259.

 

1. PLASTIC DISHPANS UNDER BERTHS AND ELSEWHERE: This is one of our favorite ideas. It is not our own idea, but was originally published, I believe, the Tanzer Newsletter in the mid-seventies. The dishpans, such as Rubbermaid brand, are about 14" X 12" X 5 1/2". They are relatively cheap, nest when not in use, are waterproof on bottom and sides, fit easily into storage areas under berths and slide easily. We use them for clothes (folded and then packed into the dishpan on edge, so that all clothes stay securely in the dishpan and so that all can be seen at a glance), fruit and vegetables (with bubble plastic around bottom and sides of dishpan and between layers of fruit and vegetables, and with each piece of fruit wrapped in crumpled paper towels, all to prevent bruising when under sail), toys and games, etc. (See figure 1.)

 

 

 

 

2 . PLASTIC UTILITY/VEGETABLE BINS ON COUNTER: Again, this idea is not original with us, but is one that we've found to be very useful. These bins look something like what is shown in Figure 2.

 

 

 

They come slotted or solid. Either would probably be satisfactory, but we prefer the solid, so that nothing can fall through. They used to be easy to find, but are now a little scarcer. They do show up in the stores periodically, at least around here. Or­iginally, I had some green ones that fit perfectly on the counter to the right of the sink. Eventually found some blue ones, to better match the boat but they were slightly larger and I had to saw about 1/4 inch off of the protruding lip of one bin in order to make the four fit on the counter. (Figure 3)

 

The fact that there are four bins allows one to the items stored there. I further compartmentalize containers within. One can use store-bought plastic half-gallon and quart milk cartons, etc.

compartmentalize by using small ones or cut-off

 

We store paper plates and stiff paper plate holders; reusable plastic plates (for meals with sauces, gravies, vegetable broths, etc.), bowls, and cups (color-coded for each family member), reusable plastic cutlery, on end in tallish container; can opener, two paring knives, rubber scraper, peeler and two or three cooking spoons (one slotted) on end in another tallish container; a plastic measuring cup; a few twist ties and rubber bands; clothespins in a container; small, sample-sized bottle of dish detergent and scrubbing pad (in small container or in open zip-lock bag); matches; toiletries (male family members' in one zip-lock bag, females' in another, for ease in taking into dockside restrooms; medicines in another zip-lock bag; sun screen; insect repellent; and a plastic dispenser bottle of wet­wipes/moist towelettes (VERY useful and easy for hand washing). Our ice pick fits neatly in the upper part of one of the bin's cylindrical legs without dropping all the way to the bottom.

 

3. TEAK RACK WITH MILK CRATES UNDER COCKPIT FLOOR: This idea is similar to what others have done, but we think our version is particularly easy to make, use and remove (when we want to lighten boat for racing, for example). We made a teak rack as indicated in Figure 4.

 

The three long rails on bottom are 41 1/2 inches long by 2 inches wide (could be made wider, if desired) by 5/8 inch high (could make higher if desired and if height of crates permits). The top boards are screwed onto the long rails with two stainless steel screws at each end of each rail. The back top board was made to fit the recess at the bottom of the milk crates (figure 5). In our case, that meant a board slightly less than 1/2 inch wide and 3/8 inch high (by 14 1/2 inches long). We bought strong plastic "milk crates" from a discount department store to place on the rack.

 

I hope people are able to find crates like these. They, like the utility bins, seem to come and go in the stores, so if you can't find them now, wait a while and keep watching. I saw some last week at our biggest hardware store. They might be found at auto/home stores, dis­count department stores, large grocery stores, home building centers, etc. Also, you might ask a dairy if they have any that they would sell you.

 

One may easily remove the step and grab the front edge of the rack and pull. The long rails of the rack slide easily and the back edge of the rack pulls the crates with it as it comes forward. The plates will not pass the lowered table, but may be lifted onto a berth. The step keeps the crates from sliding forward when they are under the cockpit floor. We load the crates with the following:

 

BACKMOST: Canned and dried dinner food, supplies to use later in the cruise to replace other items being kept now in more hand locations (for example, extra cereals, crackers, dried milk).

 

MIDDLE: Two Sea-Swing Sterno stoves, each in a brown paper grocery bag with the top folded down over the top of the stove and each stored upright in the crate. (The bag helps keep the stove from rattling and from scraping.) Two boiler lids, each wrapped in a smaller paper bag, again, to prevent abrasion and rattling; cans of Sterno, tucked around stoves.

 

FORWARDMOST: Breakfast foods (cereals, dried fruit etc.); possibly lunch and snack foods; boxes and bundles of plastic bags "tall ­kitchen" bags for trash; a few large trash bags, in case needed; large and small zip-lock bags. (these plastic bags rest on top of the other things and are accessible even when the step is in place.)

­

There are a couple of inches of space above the crates into which one may slide, for storage, long items such as children's fishing nets, etc.

 

4. WASTEBASKET: An idea that relates to the above is to add teak pieces to the inside of one of the crates, as indicated in Figure 6.

 

The thickness of these three pieces doesn't matter much. These measurements (1/4 inch and 1/2 inch) are minimum but adequate. The 10 1/2 inch by 17 11/16 inch piece is screwed onto each of the two smaller pieces with three stainless steel flathead 3/4 inch (or what­ever fits the thickness of your pieces of wood) screws. The three­ sided structure is set into a crate as indicated above and pushed snugly against one wall and screwed into place with three screws on each end, through the plastic and into the thick 4 3/8 inch by 10 inch by 1/2 inch (or more) boards. We used stainless steel round head 1/2 inch screws. This teak structure divides the crate into a smaller, semi-teak-lined forward compartment for trash, and a larger, less­teak-lined aft compartment, for other storage.

 

Use this crate just aft of the step, line the partially-teak cavity with a "tall kitchen" plastic trash bag, and you have a fixed trash receptacle that is accessible from cabin or cockpit. The tall kitchen bags are taller than the compartment needs, but have the width needed for the compartment. When I begin to fix supper, I remove the trash bag, put it between my legs as I sit on the port side (on the lowered table) and, in that way, have lots more available room in it for trash which accumulates as I fix the meal.

 

To hold the bag in place when it is in its teak compartment, there are four round or pan-head screws, as shown, that can be used, first to punch holes near the upper corners of the bag, and then, when the edges of the bag are pushed below the screw heads, to hold the bag in place. In addition, the step helps greatly to hold the front edge of the bag in place (figure 7).

 

5. BOX UNDER STEP: Another idea associated with the rack and crates idea, is to make a box, 18 3/4 inches long and the width of the step, to go under the step. We made ours as shown in Figure 8.

 

We used finger holes instead of handles so that nothing would protrude on the front or back. We used Stainless steel 2/4 inch flat­head screws through each thin panel, front and back, into the thicker side panels and into the bottom of the box. We used 1 1/4 inch screws through the sides into the bottom and through the prop board, at the bottom front, into the bottom.

 

The back of the box rests on the front end of the teak rack. The back thin panel of the box was made to extend 38 inch below the bottom of the box, to catch on the aft side of the front handle (cross-piece) of the teak rack, and thus to prevent the box's sliding forward. The prop board at the front of the box is one inch high by about two inches wide by 18 3/4 inches long and serves to level the box.

 

To gain access, one must remove the step. We store lunch items (crackers, peanut butter, squeeze cheese, etc.),and/or snack items there.

 

6. PAPER TOWEL HOLDER HANGING FROM EDGE OF COUNTER: This is very handy during cruising, if you can buy or make the parts for it. (I Use a lot of paper towels during cruises, since cloth dish or hand towels do not dry very quickly and, after being hung outside to dry, must be taken down before they are dry [due to the oncoming dewy night, the need or desire to sail, a rain shower, etc.] rehung later, taken down again, rehung again, etc.)

 

I found inch-wide vinyl-coated bendable 7 3/4 inch pieces designed to be bent into hooks. These were nice, since the top edge of the wooden counter trim on the aft side slopes upward toward the starboard side. I could bend each hook at the right place to make the paper towels hand level. Perhaps one could rig up something similar using scraps of sheet metal (1/32 inch thick [?]) with vinyl glued onto the surfaces so that they would be non-marring and non-rusting. See Figure 9.

 

The rope we used was 1/8 inch in diameter. The rope on the right is tied to both screw eyes. The one on the left is tied to the screw eye in the end of the dowel rod but has a loop tied in its other end to go on and off the screw hook above. Unhook left-hand rope from eye, slide roll of paper towels over that rope and onto dowel rod and rehook rope. Hang vinyl-coated hooks over wooden trim on aft side of "kitchen" counter.

Extra rolls of paper towels are stored under the sink.

 

7. SEA-SWING STOVES ON BOTTOM COMPANIONWAY DROP BOARD: This is a handy location. The mounts can be left on the board and the stoves themselves can be stored in one of the milk crates, as mentioned before. One can sit on the port berth (actually, more on the lowered table) and reach everything. (See Figure 10)

 

8. CHART TABLE AND CHARTS AFT OF HANGING LOCKER: We bought a portable, plastic chart board, which can be used in the lap. We store it on edge next to the hanging locker. We fixed protective and re-taining gadgets as shown in Figure 11.

 

Charts can be folded and stored behind chart board or chart can be stored there. A piece of brown elastic, cut to size and its ends stitched together to form loop, is put around gadget chart board to keep protective piece from sliding aft.

book with and

 

9. CABINET ABOVE HANGING LOCKER: We added a 6 3/8 inch tall by 21 3/8 inch wide by 9 1/2 inch deep cabinet, mounted with screws from the V-berth side of the wooden bulkhead. (See Figure 12.)

 

Tiny slidebolts hold the door closed and can be undone by reaching into the cabinet through its open top. We store a few books and papers there.

 

Below thi5 cabinet and mounted on the aft side of the wooden bulkhead are the depth-sounder, the Loran, the marine radio and a little hinged-arm electric lamp.

 

(Editor's note: this article was split into two issues, what follows is from Volume 107 - April 1994)

 

10. RIM AROUND LID OF HANGING LOCKER: We added a rim of 2 inch high teak boards, with flathead screws going up through the bottom of the hanging locker lid into the rim boards, to make that area useful storage for books, sunglasses, dividers, pencils, etc. The wooden bulkhead makes the fourth side of the enclosure. (See Figure 13.)

 

11. UNDER-TABLE RETAINING PANEL: We do not use our table, but eat in the cockpit if there is no rain, inside (a tight squeeze with the cooking gear), if there is rain. Thus, to make the storage under the table useful, we mounted four narrow, thin, about 6 3/8 inch long pieces of teak vertically two on each side of the cavity, near the aisle, about 1/4 inch above the floor, to make two channels. We screwed the wooden strips into place by screwing from the rough side of the Fiberglas through the Fiberglas into the wooden strips. By using slightly wider strips on one side of the cavity, we caused one channel to be deeper than the other. Then we cut from teak, a removable panel, about 6 3/8 inches high and 7/16 inch thick. These measurements of height and thickness don't have to be exactly as ours are to work, as long as the width of the channels and the thickness of the panel are the same and as long as the top of the panel is a couple of inches shy of the bottom of the table, to allow for placement of the wedge (see below). The length of the panel must be a little longer than the distance between the rims of the channels and a little shorter than the distance between the depths of the channels. In our case, that was 21 1/4 inches.


We screwed two plastic 1/4 inch cube bumpers (from the hardware store) onto the bottom of the panel so that it wouldn't get wet if the floor were wet. We put the panel in place by putting one end into the deep channel, then the other into the shallow channel and finally inserting a little wedge of wood into the deep channel, between the end of the panel and the vertical Fiberglas surface. (See Figure 14.)

 


 

RETAINING STRIPS FOR SHELVES ALONG SIDES OF CABIN: We added long, thin, 4 inch tall teak boards a couple of inches above the teak retaining strips that are already in place along the sides of the main cabin. (It is rather awkward to screw these pieces to the wooden bulkhead and the Fiberglas cockpit walls, but it can be done.) Then we bought plastic containers (bread loaf sized containers, celery containers, flower planters, etc.) that would fit behind the retaining strips to compartmentalize the storage and give a place in which to store winch handles, sail ties, tiller cover, air horns, emergency flares, radar reflector, etc. Items stay dry, even if there are window or seam leaks.

 

13. CANVAS BAGS: Canvas boat bags are wonderful. Try them, if you haven't yet done so. They hold a lot of heavy things, stay fairly open and upright even when empty or partially empty and can be nested when not in use, especially if they are in various sizes. We have one bag for jackets, one for rain gear, one for towels and swimwear, and various others for toys and games and miscellaneous.

 

14. TOWELS: For towels on the boat, we use baby-towels. They are thin and dry quicker than regular towels and take less space to store on the boat.

 

15. STYROFOAM PLATFORM: We made a plastic-covered styrofoam­beadboard-hard insulation platform, the same height as the boat cushions, where there are no cushions when the table is lowered. (The materials came from the building supply store.) These make retrieving canvas bags stored in that area easier, since one doesn't have to lift up the bags before pulling them out. It also means that the bottoms of the bags stay dry, even if you have leakage at hull and deck seam. The bag nearest the sidewall may need to be put in a plastic bag to protect its side from moisture.

 

We made our platform in two pieces for ease of placement and ease of storage when not in use. (See Figure 15.)

 

16. HOOKS: Shallow hooks on the forward sides of the bulkheads can be used to hang canvas bags. In the V-berth, the bags can be large and heavy and can rest on the cushions. The bags hung on the Fiberglas bulkhead should be smaller and lighter and should come no lower than the Fiberglas, or they will block access to the storage under the cockpit seats. Onto the bottom of each of the bags, sew a stainless steel or plastic ring and add a second hook for each bag on the bulkhead at bottom-of-bag level to engage the ring. This will keep the bag from swinging while one is under sail.

 

17. FIRE EXTINGUISHER: We mounted ours under the sink, on the wooden bulkhead.

 

18. KEROSENE LANTERN AND OTHER LIGHTS: We mounted a kerosene lantern on the wooden bulkhead, to the starboard of the electric light over the sink, to use for light without electricity and warmth.

 

In addition to the little hinged-arm electric light over the hanging locker, we mounted a second such light, this one for the starboard berth, on the teak at the starboard-aft corner of the counter.

 

 

19. PUMP JUG: If your water pump doesn't work, or maybe even if it does, try getting a plastic one-gallon pump-type insulated jug. (one pushes up an down on the lid to make water come out of the spout, which is high on the jug.) It fits snugly into the sink (won't rattle), can be used without lifting it from the sink and is easy to use from a sitting position. Also, it can be removed from the sink and used elsewhere when cooking and can be refilled from any other less useful container.

 

20. CUSHIONS: If you have to have your cushions recovered, have the foam cut so that you have more, smaller cushions than before. This makes access to areas under berths easier, especially when there are other people in the cabin, sitting on the cushions. We had ours done as indicated in Figure 16. (Each cushion is marked with an "X".)

 

When we had our cushions recovered, we had two back cushions made for the back of the cabin's port and starboard seats (table lowered as mentioned earlier). The cushions come up to the top of the retaining strips we added (see number 12) and, together, make a bed­length cushion for the cockpit, when one wishes to use them that way. When used as back cushions in the cabin, they are held in place by thin shock cord straps, which are fastened to the original teak retaining strips on the side shelves.

 

21. FOLDING DOOR ON V-BERTH: Many of you have probably done as we have done, that is, bought a folding door with magnetic catch, cut it to the right length and mounted the track with little angle braces attached to the doorway edges of the wooden bulkhead. (See Figure 17.)

 

22. SIPHON HOSE FOR REFRIGERATOR: Our refrigerator is not the one that originally came with the boat but what we find useful in our situation is to keep the ice in a dishpan in the refrigerator and to use a siphon hose every morning, or more often, to drain the ice water into a bucket or other container and then throw it overboard or down the drain. Plastic tubing perhaps 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter for the siphon, can be purchased at many hardware stores.

 

23. SCREENS: We made a screen for the vertical part of the com­panionway by buying two little spring-tension curtain rods, with rubber tips of 5/8 inch diameter, or less, on ends, one for the tip and one for the bottom and by cutting a piece of Fiberglas screening (sold by the foot at some hardware stores) to the right size plus about 7 inches extra in length and about 3 inches extra in width. We put a row of stitching down each side of the screen as a precaution against unravelling, but did not make a hem as unravelling didn't seem to be a likely problem. Then we stitched a sleeve (rod pocket) for each curtain rod, one at the top and one at the bottom, making each sleeve generous enough to allow the rod to slide easily in and out. Next we cut two narrow, thin wooden strips the length of the vertical sides of the companionway between the upper and lower curtain rods and by planing and sanding, bevelled one edge of each strip so that each strip can be used as a long wedge to hold one side of the screen in place in the groove in the side of the companionway. When not in use, the two curtain rods, the two wooden strips and the Fiberglas screening can all be neatly rolled up into one little bundle and stored. There is no need to attach Velcro pieces around the compan­ionway in order to have a screen there. (See Figure 18.)


For the hatch above the V-berth, we did use a commercially available Velcro and Fiberglas screen kit, but it might be possible to rig up a non-Velcro system there, too.

 

24. NIGHT ARRANGEMENTS: We put the back cushions down flat to make a top layer on the seat cushions under the torso of the sleeper. The variation in thickness under our sleeping bags is not noticeable to us but if it is to you, perhaps you could add PFD seat cushions from the cockpit to extend the extra foam thickness for the length of the bed.

 

We pile the canvas bags in the aisle and, if necessary, put one or two in plastic trash bags, to protect from condensation and put them out in the cockpit.

 

A plastic bowl-shaped pitcher with a handle is handy to have a chamber pot if people are sleeping in the V-berth and if some family members sometimes need to use such facilities during the night.

 

25. COAMING BOXES: We have installed coaming boxes on the port and starboard sides in the liner above the seat cushions in the main cabin. These are handy for storage of billfolds, flashlights, keys, and various personal items during the night.

 

26. SUPPER SUGGESTIONS: Some people have said that they have trouble knowing what to fix for the evening meals on the Sterno Stoves. I don't know how good our meals are, but they at least seem to fill the family and require only heating. This is advantageous since cooking is slow on Sterno. Also, the following sample menus can be fixed with only canned and dry food (crackers, chow mein noodles, croutons, etc.), to the ingredients will keep indefinitely and the meals can be prepared even if you've had no recent access to ice or fresh food.

 

If you have cheese on hand, slices of cheese, placed on top of the ham and potatoes or corned beef, can be used, to add flavor. The cheese will melt or partially melt from the heat of the food below it.

 

The general idea is to combine some kind of canned meat or fish with some kind of sauce (the gravy that comes with the roast beef or stew, canned gravy, or canned soup, used as sauce), some kind of starch (potatoes, corn, dried noodles, croutons, Melba toast, etc.), and either together with the above or separately, two kinds of vege­tables. You can make up your own combinations.

 

If you are watching your salt intake, you can use the reduced salt soups as sauces, use individual-serving sized cans and dilute with some water, use just part of a can, and dilute it, and refrigerate the rest (if you have ice), or, if necessary, just use part of a can discard the rest (if you have no ice).


When we start our trip, I take with us cooked ground beef or other meat for the first night or two, cooked sausage for one break­fast, and cooked boiled eggs for one breakfast.

 

Later on your trip, if you have access to a grocery store, you can add variety to your meals by buying such items as barbecued chicken, meatballs and sauce and salads from the deli section, and hot dogs, low fat turkey kielbasa, frozen broccoli, frozen cauliflower, frozen pea pods, etc., from the refrigerated and frozen sections. The frozen vegetables mentioned will keep for several days (will thaw, of course) in the ice box and need almost no cooking, and not even much heating time when thawed.

 

We tend to have fresh fruit at every lunch and dinner. It keeps well when packed as described in the dishpan section and when stored in the cool areas under the berths.

 

We tend to have, also, raw vegetables (lettuce, carrot sticks, tomatoes, celery, pepper sticks, cucumbers etc.) and sandwiches (with various lunch meats, cheeses, peanut butter and jelly, etc.). The lettuce and other raw vegetables will keep pretty well in the dishpans under the berths, too. Pocket bread and bagels add variety, keep pretty well and are not easily accidentally mashed.

 

Louis Rich and Butterball sell breast of turkey (oven-roasted, honey-roasted, and barbecued), skinless, boneless, cooked and unsliced, in the hot dog or gourmet sections of most grocery stores. These will keep for weeks, if unopened, in the ice box and make a nice addition to the meats you have available for suppers. They seem ex­pensive, but go a long way. Also, they can be bought on sale and frozen until your cruise. A roast can be opened and used for supper one night and the leftovers used for lunch the following day or two.

 

Something we have recently discovered which we think will be very useful on cruises are the "burger ‘n loaf" products from Harvest Direct. (Archer-Daniels-Midland.) These are vegetable-based, dried, seasoned ground beef substitutes and we think they are very good. They need no cooking, only soaking for 15 minutes and heating. They can be formed into patties or not. Call 1-800 835-2867 for catalog. Flavors available are original (all-purpose), taco, herb and spice, Italian, chili and sloppy joe. We particularly like taco, but all are good, although chili and sloppy joe are fairly spicy. (Taco shells are a good dry "bread" to carry on the boat.)

 

Also, we have recently bought a food-dehydrator and are going to try it for meat, fruit and vegetables. Cooked and dried meat is supposed to last two weeks. Taking some food in dry form will cut down on the weight of canned food needed.

 

For milk, we used dried milk, mixed daily in two one-quart plastic pitchers and kept in the ice box. Dried milk can be bought in envelopes to reconstitute to one quart. We like the taste of skimmed and reconstituted dried milk, but if you don't, perhaps you could take a jar of non-dairy creamer with you to use to doctor the taste of the reconstituted dried milk.

 

If you have a stove that gives more intense heat than Sterno, meals can be made using the canned meats and vegetables mentioned in various combinations with such dried starch dishes as noodles and sauce (such as Lipton and Hamburger Helper), seasoned rice (Betty Crocker and Pillsbury). You can use the liquid from the cans of vegetables for some of the liquid required by the dried starches and add the vegetables and meat at the end of the cooking and heat until all is warmed. For other dishes, sauce and gravy mixes (sold in envelopes) can be used in place of canned gravy and soup. Also biscuit mix (Bisqwuick or Jiffy) can be used to make dumplings, which cook in the boiling meat and vegetable mixture.

 

 

RECIPES

CHILE

1 large can tomato pieces 1 Can Hormel chile

1 Can roast beef (K-Mart)

or 1 lb. cooked ground beef 1 Can beans - waxed or kidney Heat and serve.

BEEF STEW

1 2 1/2 lb. can Dinty Moore

beef stew

1 Can roast beef 1 Can carrots

1 Can green beans Heat and serve.

CHOW MEIN

1 Large can bean sprouts 1 Can roast beef

1 Small can water chestnuts Some onions - dry or fresh

Soy sauce (no refrigeration needed) Heat together & serve over Chinese noodles.

HAM & CHEESE

1 lb. canned ham, sliced 2 Cans potatoes

1 Small can cheese soup Heat together and serve

Heat together 1 can each of green beans & stewed tomatoes.

CREAMED CHICKEN

4 Small cans of boned chicken 1 Can cream of chicken soup

1 Can peas

1 Can corn

together & serve over un­seasoned croutons.

OPEN-FACED CORNED BEEF

1 12 oz. can corned beef

Melba toast or dry bread Ketchup (no refrig. needed) Heat corned beef. Spread Heat toast with ketchup & top

with corned beef. Heat to­gether 1 can beets, drain &

1 can green beans.

 

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