No. 101 - February 1993



Spurred on by volume #100 (A milestone, hopefully not a millstone!) of Tanzer Talk's "Spare Parts" article, I have the following to offer from recent experience at the Sailboat Shop.

Tops-in-Qua1ity, Box 148 Marysvil1e, MI (313) 364-7150 supply stainless steel stern ladders and lifelines of their own manufacture and supplied the Edenton plant when they were building Tanzers. The double folding stern ladder with teak treads (FL 30W X 12, their designation) was the one on the US Tanzer 22 and is of excellent design and manufacture. Current retail is $212.00 (US) FOB. They have also made a number of sets of quarter loops to the Sai1boat Shop design. I much prefer it to the stern rail because they do not block access across the stern to the motor and stern ladder. A lifeline is provided which is removable. The cost is less and they can be shipped UPS while the stern rail assembly can not.


Barient winches installed on the Edenton built Tanzers have plastic bodies (bases) and years later sometimes grow enough to prevent free turning of the drum. The bases can be turned down with a lathe or with emery cloth, using the cloth the way the shoeshine boy polished my father's shoes. For more assistance or parts, call Tom Hughes IMI-Barient at (203) 453-4374.


Thirdly, I had not known of POR-15 but I have had excellent ex­perience with Pettit's Rust-Lok #6980. It is probably similar, like you cannot get it off your hands. It seems to last as long as epoxy in sealing keels from rust and is much less expensive and easier to use. (Do I now recall an earlier Tanzer Talk article about this product for Tanzer keels?)


Finally, the Garlock outboard bracket supplied with the US Tanzers was never great and gets real wobbly with wear. Garhauer (no relation) makes an excellent design of stainless steel which is used on Catalina 22s and Capri 22s now.


The Sailboat Shop, route 20, Skaneateles NY 13152 (315) 685-7558 will be glad to help Tanzer 22 owners with these or any other problems having sold and serviced over 50 of these excellent boats. Dick Besse 1984 Class Champion.




When I wrote the first part of this article on spare parts, I asked for help in locating sources for hard to find spares for our boats.


Jake and Cathy Fitchten sail Tanzer 22 #835 out of the Pointe Claire Yacht Club, near Montreal. Along with their renewal fee came a letter.


During one windy race day, their port genoa winch started groaning. Despite their efforts to be kind to the winch, the problem remained. Jake even took the winch apart, no mean feat, in the middle of a race on such a windy day, to exchange the pawls and springs. Which did help a bit, but the groaning still persisted.


Like many wives, Cathy was put in charge of buying new pawls, springs and other unmentionable and unpronounceable unknown parts for their Barlow winches. After much delay, Cathy called Barlow in Australia. They gave her the name of their American distributor. Who in turn, gave her the name of their Canadian dealer.


The US distributor 15 INTERNATIONAL MARINE INDUSTRIES, GUILFORD CT (203) 453-4374. The Canadian dealer is BREWER BROTHERS MARINE, HAMILTON ON (416) 529-4114.


Thank you, Cathy. This is the kind of information we need. It is my intent to build a data bank of such needed information. When complete, will be featured in Tanzer Talk. Perhaps even become a regular feature for instant reference for our members.


Tanzer sailors have always been an inventive lot, so I am looking forward to hearing from you with your solutions, sources of supply, available substitutes, anything you can think of that will be useful.




One of our favourite overnight anchorages when we cruise Penobscot Bay in Maine is Cradle Cove. At 700 Acre Island. Just across from Isleboro.


Here you will find Dark Harbor Boat Yard, presided over by Mike and Carol Macaulay. A full service marina with a well stocked chandlery. Judging by their equipment, they should be able to handle just about any size boat and any size problem. In addition, showers and a washer and dryer, open 24 hours. And Carol's Mom makes the best homemade blueberry jam you will ever find.


We always buy a jar or two whenever we visit.


We were anchored there a couple of years ago, in company with our daughter and her husband aboard the Baltic 38 they had rented for the week. It was a filthy night and as their boat is so much larger than ours, we were invited to have supper with them on the Baltic. As I recall, there was just one other boat anchored in the Cove - a small boat about the same size as our Tanzer.


Prior to supper, there was much discussion between mother and daughter over the VHF radio as to the dinner menu. It was agreed we would bring a chicken over to be cooked on their propane BBQ. Plus countless other suggestions as to salad, dressing, veggies, desert and so on. The meal was a resounding success and we rowed back to our own boat late that night.


The next morning we met the couple from that other boat and heard their sad story. Seems their yacht club had planned a lobster cookout at Cradle Cove but had cancelled it at the last moment because of the poor weather. But not before this couple had sailed over and anchored. Because of the worsening weather they were reluctant to sail back home. With nothing much else to do, they had listened to our radio conversation the previous night. And as they told us, had listened with envy to the menu discussion as they huddled on their own boat, without a thing to eat. When the aroma of the chicken being cooked wafted over to them, they're misery was complete.


Had we known, we would have most certainly have invited them over for supper. But this couple were new to cruising (in fact, this was their first overnight) and they were much to shy to contact us by radio with their plight.


But it got me to thinking. What should every cruising sailor consider to be the minimum of emergency stores to be carried? Even on a boat as small as a Tanzer 22.


Here is what we always keep on board. For starters and perhaps the most vital item of all, is a canned ham. Can be served hot or cold and in a dozen ways. We never leave the mooring, even if only for a planned day sail, without this. And provided the salt water does not get to the can, it can be kept on board all season until needed.


Almost as important is a can of corn beef and a can of corn.

Cream or nibblet. Mixed together and cooked in a fry pan, a gourmet meal! If you have remembered to stock a can of small boiled potatoes, these can be sliced and pan fried at the same time. Served by candle light - a feast fit for a king.


For lunch or quick warm up snacks, nothing beats Lipton's "Cup-o­Soup". All that is needed is boiling water.


I don't have to tell you that the larder should also contain tin cans of vegetables, fruit and whatever else you fancy. Instant coffee keeps forever as do tea bags. And one should never venture far from home, without a full water tank.


Fog and nasty weather is always a possibility, especially on the Maine coast and what may have been planned as a day sailor short overnight cruise, can and often does, turn out to be longer than an­ticipated. A few basic supplies can turn a disaster into a delightful experience. Snuggled down for the evening in a warm cabin, while the rain or wind batters the deck, with a plate of hot corn beef hash - a little wine - some music - what more could one ask? Did I forget to mention wine as one of the most essential items?




Alfred Green sails his Tanzer 22 #2098 out of Frenchman's Bay in Pickering, Ontario. Here is how he made a simple bilge alarm.

The heart of the system is a Dicon 300 smoke alarm that can be

bought from Canadian Tire (#46 0082-6) for $12.99. I dare say a similar smoke alarm would work just as well. Here is how to turn any smoke alarm into one which also detects rising bilge water.


Drill a hole through the casing, close to the detector unit "can". It is best to drill a small pilot hole first and enlarge using a countersink. The hole should be large enough to accept a Coax/phone socket. Use a glue gun to stick it to the smoke alarm.


From the socket, one wire should be soldered to the metal case and the other to its test arm. Take care to run the wires so as not to interfere with air flow. It is suggested that the wire from the test arm should go to the center of the coax and the other to the outer of the coax.


The Detector Head is made by baring a half an inch of coax central wire, twist, it together and strengthen with solder. Do the same with the outer braid wire.


Test by dipping the Head into water. Don't forget the battery!




I noticed an article on Jiffy reefing in the October Newsletter.

There are other articles on this subject in the Compendiums, but none I have seen mention the system I use, which was shown to me by a very experienced sailor and which has worked well for me on two boats.


My system begins the same as that described by Randy Welters. A length of Polyester line runs from an eye on the aft end of the boom, up through the leech reef point and back down to a cheek block on the opposite side of the boom. I then continue the line forward to a cheek block on the boom near the gooseneck. The line is then passed up and through the luff reef cringle (at the mast) and back down through a third cheek block on the original side of the boom. The line is then led aft to a "T" cleat about the mid-point of the boom so that a person standing in the cockpit can reach the line at this cleat easily without leaving the cockpit. My halyards are led aft to the cockpit. To reef, I release the main halyard, reach up to grasp the jiffy reefing line at the "T" cleat and haul on the line. This pulls down the mainsail at the leech and the luff simultaneously without my having to leave the cockpit. I then wrap the excess line around the cleat. Finally, I roll up the excess sail and tie it off with reef lines which I leave permanently tied in the two middle reef points in the old fashioned manner. I find the only disadvantage with this method is that it leaves a fair amount of excess line to be wrapped around that cleat after the mainsail has been reefed. This takes a minute or two. But, overall, the system works well and allows me to reef the main in one operation without leaving the safety of the cock­pit. With this system, there in no need to use the factory reefing hooks on the boom. The diagram on the next page shows the setup and may be easier to follow than the written description.






How should one winterize an outboard engine? Many years ago, when your Class Association was very young, we sponsored a series of seminars. One of which was on outboard motors. Our speaker, a local Johnson dealer discussed this very thing. His advice. Either do nothing, except add a few ounces of gas conditioner to the gas, run the motor for a few moments to make sure the conditioner is now in the carburetor and store the motor in a cool place - upright. Or do a complete winterizing job, Change the spark plugs, fog the cylinders, drain and refill the gear case. Which at the Johnson dealer in Camden cost me exactly $50.23. As you can see, I am taking no chances with my new motor! The old Mercury 7.5 I have on my boat at home is given the former treatment.


I have been asked about heavier and more powerful motors. This is not a problem for the racing skipper. He will use the lightest motor he can find. But, for the cruising skipper, is there something to be gained by going to a 9.9 motor? Not too much. The modern six and eight motors that have been specifically designed for sailboat use are pretty efficient. And will push the boat to just about hull speed, which if memory serves is 1.34 times the square root of the water line. About six knots on a Tanzer 22. Any more power and you will be just trying to bury the stern with little appreciable increase in speed. Another thought - a six weighs 55 to 60 pounds. Which is just about all I can lift from the transom bracket to the cockpit. Some of the 9.9s weigh as much as 85 pounds. A much more difficult task if one should ever need to lift it into the cockpit.


Theft! There are a number of locking devices sold to deter would be thieves. None of them seem to work all that well. Again, on the advice of our local Johnson dealer, the best deterrent is a motor that looks old and worthless. Paint it to match the boat and/or remove all the decals, anything to make it look less attractive than the one next door. By all means lock the motor but in addition, bolt the motor to the motor mount. Thieves often carry bolt cutters, but hopefully not a set of wrenches.

Backing up. If you have one of the newer models, this is probably not a problem as they most likely have been designed to provide maximum thrust in reverse. Older motors are another matter. They generally have the exhaust coming out from the center of the propeller, or in some cases, just above. The result, when in reverse the propeller is trying to "bite" through foam, instead of solid water.


Help is at hand.

What is needed is to have the exhaust exit above the cavitation plate. (That is the plate just above the propeller.)


This is what the newer motors do. Your local outboard motor dealer should be able to modify your motor by drilling holes above that plate and blocking off the original exhaust.


Much as I like my Johnson six Sailmaster, I detest that wretched

Johnson two horsepower motor I bought a few years ago. It is hard to start, often impossible. There is no neutral, so unless someone is holding on to the dock, the dinghy goes scooting off. And it is just about the noisiest motor I have ever heard. This is one motor I cannot in all conscience recommend.