No. 77 - April 1988

 

BOAT MODS FROM DAVID ROSENBLUM TANZER 22 "LA DI DA" #2232

I placed the traveler about 8" aback from the companionway. It is mounted on a teak bridge that is formed to the shape of the seats.  I filled in the space between the traveler and the bulk­head with a teak seat.  This seat makes it easier to climb to the cabin top and of course makes it comfortable to sit with your back to the bulkhead.  The obvious control of the boom and sha­ping the sail from a full width traveler is more than I ever expected.  I rarely use the boom vang other than down wind.  All my halyards are led aft to the cockpit.

 

Adjustable back stay with one twist.  I ground down the front part of the bottom of the mast so when I bend the mast it bows forward and does not pull back the top.

I have changed most of the fittings in the four years. The blocks did not perform as they should.

The one big problem has been the battery system.  I have had two batteries.  One was dropped and that caused its end!  The other was a trolling motor battery which I am told is not built to be a sailboat deep cycle battery.  The third battery will be helped by a solar panel that will charge back the 25 amps I use on the weekend cruises I take.  Last year my family used LaDiDa every weekend.  Add this to my midweek night sailing and the total battery usage was more than one battery can deliver since we are at a mooring and can't charge all the time.

The cooking is done on a sterno sea swing stove and a barbe­cue on the stern rail.  We have made spaghetti on the BBQ and dumped it into a boatmade foil colander on the cockpit floor.  The best meal was on one of our raft-ups where we had gulf shrimp on the BBQ with raw clams and the rest.  Just a little butter sauce and they cook up in no time.  Put the clams on the BBQ and they will steam open.  (David - you are making all of us jealous!)

I have solved the ice box drain problem.  You know, the one where you forget to empty the bottle!  We freeze the ice in gallon plastic containers and drink the cool refreshing water all weekend.  Two gallons lasts 36 hours.  On the two night weekends, which I prefer because Saturday is a full vacation day, not a getaway day, we have to buy ice so its back to emptying the bottle.  Could the battery handle a refrigeration unit??

 

We have cruised with Ben since he was five months old.  Since we have the filled in vee berth I took some hooks and some netting and closed off the opening and now we have a crib.  This year he will be three and Pat and I want the V-berth back so I`m making a lee board for the port quarter berth.

 

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JACK LINES

by BOB JOHNSON

The pictures show various views of the jack line I use for reefing so as not to have to take out any slugs.  Detach the slug nearest the reef cringle and thread a line, tied to adjacent slugs above and below, through the open grommet.  Keep this slug above the grommet so it will stay up to keep the luff close to the mast.


I use my Cunningham line that has a hook on one end with the other end brought back to the cockpit, as the reefing luff line.  To reef, re-hook from Cunningham to reef cringle, slack the main halyard and recleat at premarked length on the halyard.  The reef line to the clew is then tightened and cleated while the main sheet is slacked.  The last operation is tightening the Cunningham line from the cockpit giving a nice tight main luff.

I can reef with no trouble while single handing by first luffing the main, balancing the boat with the jib and a locked tiller and then going to the mast to do the above procedure.  However, having life lines helps the nerves.

 

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FOOT REST

by BOB JOHNSON

These two photos are of a foot rest made of laminated hard wood.  One end of which goes over the main sheet pin no longer used after installing my traveler.  The other end is slotted to accept the lazarett latch.  It is great to brace your feet on it when the boat is heeling, especially for a short wife who does most of the helming.

 

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Dear John:

I just got my replacement rudder back from Foss Foam.  The turnaround was about three weeks.  With the rudder I got a letter from Bob Walker a copy of which I am enclosing.  He seems to think, and I agree with him, that the rudder cracked along its seam due to my sanding off the small raised flange that encir­cles the rudder.  This flange is the means of joining the two halves of the rudder together.  I had sanded it off flush with the rudder based on two comments that were in the Newsletter.

I had read those comments and assumed that the flange was simply mold flashing which could be removed without causing any harm to the rudder.  As Bob points out in his letter, the flange forms the connection between the two halves of the rudder and if it is removed some other means of joining the two halves together must be substituted.  This could be done with one or more layers of glass tape and epoxy.  I was somewhat amazed that he replaced the rudder without charge since I was the cause of its failure.  I think that my mistake should be pointed out in the Newsletter so that others do not repeat it.  Surely, Bob cannot afford to replace large numbers of rudders.

Sincerely,

William S. Murdoch # 1949

 

THE FOLLOWING IS THE LETTER FROM

BOB WALKER

 

Yesterday we shipped your replacement rudder by UPS.  This is a new rudder.  Your rudder is made in a two part mold that is why you have a seam line around the rudder.  This seam is never trimmed flush with the rudder.  If you wish to sand it flush you should put a glass tape over the seam.

The rudder is made using a closed cell high density urethane Foss Foam.  This foam will not absorb water.

Bob Walker.

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A UNIQUE GENOA CLEAT ARRANGEMENT

AS SEEN ON #1700 "DOVE"

BY EDGAR SHERMAN

Ed has replaced the stock Genoa cleat with a "Butterfly Cleat" as shown in the picture below.  You are looking at the port winch.  To release the sheet, just press down on the line and the wind pressure on the Genoa will pull the sheet through the cleat and the sail will be eased.

 GENOA SHEET EASED BY PUSHING DOWN

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SERVICE DEPARTMENT

I had a letter from a member the other day whose chainplates were pulling out from the forward bulkheads where they are bolted.  Though not a common problem, when you consider how much tension is put on those plates, I am surprised this is the first owner to write.

 

If any other readers are experiencing the same problem here is one solution.

1. Remove chainplates and their backing plates.

2. What you now should see is SIX elongated holes in the bulkhead.

3. If the damage is not too great you may be able to get away with the following.

4. Tape over the back of each hole with masking or similar tape.

5. Then fill each hole with epoxy glue or resin and cover the front of each hole with tape to prevent the epoxy from leaking out.

6. When the epoxy has cured, position the chainplates in the original location and re-drill the holes for the bolts.

7. However, a better method is to enlarge each hole with a hole saw or drill.

8. Fill each enlarged hole as described above and re-drill in the same manner.

9. Now, the force or strain is no longer centered on the bolts but is spread by the epoxy "plug" you have made.

10. Alternatively, you could fill each hole with a piece of hardwood cut the size of the hole and glued in place.  Whatever method you decide to use, take care not to enlarge the holes too much, or the repair will be visible when the chainplates are re­installed.  If the day comes you decide to sell (Heaven forbid!) your boat, any prospective buyer that sees signs of repairs will assume the boat is ready to fall apart.

 

Two different types of bulkheads were used for the Tanzer 22.  Early boats have teak faced plywood.  Later boats have vinyl faced.  And I'm not sure but I think some bulkheads were a composition board, not plywood.  This type is probably stronger as water and rot should not affect it.  Plywood, on the other hand, will rot if water is allowed to penetrate and collect.  Always a possibility where there are through deck fittings.

 

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Dear John:

Dick Stimpfl's (#1498) comments on his problems with his centerboard intrigued me.  My old Tanzer 22 (#1863) was a K/CB.  I did not have the problems Mr. Stimpfl had as it was always in fresh water.  There was, however, some rust on the keel after the second or third season.  Part of his problem could be the tin based bottom paint he is using.  I had my keel and Center Board sand blasted.  Then I applied a few coats of Epoxy tar before bottom painting the keel with VC17.  Although I sold the boat later that year, it seemed to stand up.

One of the things that I always felt was "cheap" about the Tanzer was the cast iron keel and center board. The center board looked like part of a cast iron stove.  If the keel were lead, Mr. Stimpfl and others would not be having problems.  Locally one owner changed his K/CB for a fin keel which was expensive and also necessitated modifying the trailer.

As a suggestion, why doesn't the Class Association "fix" the center board problem like it fixed the rudder?  Why not develop a kit consisting of a Fiberglas liner for the center board trunk which would be installed after the keel had been sand blasted and coated with epoxy tar.  Then (as part of the kit) install a thinner (because of the insert) lead center board the same weight as the cast iron.  This should solve the problem without altering the weight.

Speaking of the new rudder, I sold my boat before the new rudder arrived.  I have, however, sailed the boat with it and I agree with everything that has been said about it.  It was long overdue.

I do not understand Dick Stimpfl's desire to mount the new rudder higher.  That eliminates most of the advantage.  I have had the old rudder come right out of the water in a tight race.  Turning 90 degrees into the path of another boat until you can release the mainsheet is no fun!  My advice to Mr. Stimpfl is to not retract the center board completely when approaching shallows and using it to warn him before he hits his rudder.

Yours truly,

Jim Spalding ex1863 now C&C #91

 

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Dear John:

We have owned a Tanzer 22 for over six years now and sailed her exclusively on Lake Champlain, out of Essex, NY. We are not the racing types, but we do enjoy a high performance stable boat that's well built and affordable.  All of this, we feel, we have been getting with the Tanzer 22.

We'd like to see the Tanzer 22 Association survive - along with its outstanding Newsletter.

How can my interest in the Association as a cruising sailor be maintained?  Let me mention those points that count for me:

1. The ready availability of spare parts for the Tanzer 22.

2. A steady up-dating of the Tanzer 22 by being able to buy affordable new parts - example: the new rudder, a new, modern looking window, replacing the old-fashioned three little windows. (Can such be purchased?)

3. Regular feature articles in the Newsletter addressing practical improvements and maintenance of the Tanzer 22.

4. A regular ad section.

5. More articles on cruising.

6. Stimulation of cruising groups of Tanzer 22's: a starting point would be a column of Tanzer owners in the same geographic location that are interested in joint sailing adventures.

Several of these point have obviously been addressed in the past and I have merely mentioned them because they are important to me.

Think sailing.

Sincerely

Fritz G. Will #2030

 

Dear John:

I am writing this letter in answer to Dick Stimpfl's article about the "Sticking/Slapping Centerboards".

 

I have Tanzer #1360, also a K/CB model.  The solution I came up with (after much ranting and raving around the Seward Boat Harbor) was to drill a one inch hole through the cabin sole just above the aftermost part of the centerboard.  The hole can be neatly plugged with a one inch transom plug and the access to the centerboard makes it possible to "beat" the centerboard down with a steel rod and large hammer.  So much for how to get the critter down.

To solve the problem with the rust, I ground the centerboard down to bare metal (I also had a slight warp) and then took it to a place in Anchorage where they rebuild electric motors.  The gentleman there dipped my chunk of steel into the lacquer vat, let it drip for a few hours and then baked it in their oven for six hours.  Result?  One very thinly coated centerboard that has not rusted in three seasons.  It goes up and down in the trunk and does not rattle.  Last time I checked the centerboard the lacquer looked like new.  I sail #1360 only in salt water so this remedy seems to be the ticket.

One should be able to find a place near by that rebuilds electric motors and therefore would have the facilities to solve the problem.

Please write if you need further information.

Dal Godwin #1360

 

SELF-TACKING JIB

by FRED FAGEN

Firstly, my sailing area is the mouth of the York River and the Chesapeake Bay.  Our prevailing winds are out of the East, usually in the range of 10 - 15 knots.  It's a seven to eight mile trip down River to reach the Bay, so we're usually beating to windward for a couple of hours before getting to open water.  Although I had read Mike Leiter's piece in Newsletter #35 (Janua­ry 1979), I thought there might be a better way to accomplish the same result.  Especially in view of the fact that "Sistiana" did not have a storm jib in her inventory.

My first step was to have the local cloth merchant make a blade for #149.  The angle of the foot approximates that of the working jib, with the clew about two feet above the foredeck.  The leach is parallel to and roughly six to eight inches forward of the mast, resulting in a very high aspect ratio sail.  The cloth is 5.75 oz. Dacron with the corners fairly heavily reinfor­ced.  It has a bit more draft than a heavy weather jib but, considering its weight, I believe it would do well in a moderate blow if sheeted normally.

For self-tacking, I quickly reached the same conclusion as Leiter: that is, there's not enough room on the foredeck for any kind of traveler.  However, I wasn't satisfied with his sheeting arrangement and I sure didn't want to clutter an already crowded area with a clubfoot with its pedestal, etc.

My solution was to shackle a small, two-sheave block to the blade jib's clew and to mount two single blocks, one with a becket, on each side of the deck slightly aft of the mast.  The prototype is setup with the P/S blocks lashed to the fourth attachment-point for the teak hand rail and this seems to be just about the right location.  The single sheet is tied to the becket on the starboard block, rove through one of the clew sheaves, down to the port block, back through the second clew sheave, back to the first block and finally aft to one of the jib cleats on the winch ledge.  I'm told by Eric Spencer that the arrangement I came up with is called a "Crosby" something or other.  This may not seem surprising to you experienced seamen, but to me, my discovery was nothing short of amazing!

 

For my first trial run the weather couldn't have been more co-operative.  Ten to twelve knots of wind blowing directly up­river and I made it to the Bay with a minimum of tacking.  If anything, the boat has a more balanced helm even with the old scimitar rudder.  And she points as high as with any foresail in her inventory.  In fact, once I'd completed each tack, I could lash the tiller and move freely about the boat without any se­rious concerns.  Once in the Bay, I was able to try the ar­rangement on various points of sail and quickly determined that on anything beyond a beam reach, performance deteriorated rapi­dly.  The further off the wind, the more the blade is blanketed by the main.  However, once you're on a beam reach, what do you need a self tacking jib for?  Put up another foresail, sheet it normally and sail on!

After thoroughly testing my arrangement and making sure that the theory holds up, my next step will be to make some kind of permanent setup.  I don't want to add additional gingerbread to the deck, so rather than mount the P/S blocks using pad eyes or eye straps, I plan on replacing the existing tracks for the jib lead blocks with longer versions.  All this requires in addition to the longer tracks is a becket added to the starboard jib lead block.  A 40" track will give the desired flexibility to accom­plish self-tacking, as well as providing additional adjustability of lead angle for any of the smaller foresails.  As soon as Eric Spencer supplies the new parts and they're installed, I'll let you know how the whole thing works.

Some time in the near future, I'll tell you about my expe­riences with "Sistiana's" centerboard.  It's taken me nearly two years to solve the various problems this fifteen year old boat has thrown at me, but I think I've got this one licked.

 

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