No. 75 - December 1987


You may recall, we asked in our last Newsletter, for solutions to the perennial problems associated with the keel center­board model.

Chuck Hansen (#91) wrote the other day - he has the earlier version - that is an iron keel with an aluminum centerboard. Here is his letter.

"Sorry I messed up the drill sizes in my "rudder" letter.  I'm glad the error was caught. I used the new rudder all season. This was the first time I could use my cruising spinnaker to its fullest extent. With the old rudder, once the wind got abeam, I was going sideways no matter what I did with the helm or with sheet trim.  It just did not have enough authority to change the heading especially at low speeds. I had to douse the chute and reset it after I got back on course.  The new rudder is effective down to the slightest forward motion. It is much more effective in high winds as well. Coming about is much faster and less boat speed is lost. It is hard to believe the difference unless you experience it. The new rudder is worth every penny.

The real purpose of this letter is to tell you of my center­board problems as you requested in the last Newsletter.  When I bought #91 in 1980, the marina had already installed a stop bolt through the back of the keel which kept the board about six inches out of the slot. More drag but, without it, the board always became stuck.

In 1986 I had to replace the centerboard and I sailed without any board for a while until I could get the new one and arrange to have it installed. (That was a real job, since the pivot bolt had bent downward in the middle and had to be drilled out.) Theoretically, I should have experienced more side-slip but I didn't really notice any adverse effects. When the new board was installed, I decided to try it without the stop bolt but is soon become stuck in the keel.

In 1987, the marina removed the fiber liner from the keel slot, hoping to prevent sticking. It worked but the board banged around in the keel. I cut a section from a truck Inner tube and wrapped it around the board, which quieted it down but by the end of July the board was stuck again. I haven't seen it out of the water yet so I don't know what made it stick. In earlier years, the combination of swollen rust and marine growth were what caused the board to stick. I think we have to live with the fact that we either have noisy, rattling centerboards or quiet, jammed centerboards.


Chuck Hansen #91 - Sejlboad"

This modification (a stop bolt) might be just as effective with the iron centerboard model. I have a feeling that most boards get stuck because they are fully retracted where the slot is probably at its smallest.

However, what will happen when the boat is hauled for the winter and resting on its cradle?  One of our members modified his trailer, cutting a "slot" where the keel rests on the bed so he is able to lower the board during storage to work on it. Sounds like a good idea to me.



Photo #1 shows a piece of shock cord used to keep the swit­ches from being turned on when a sail bag is dragged out from the forward berth.

Photo #2 shows the head door, complete with "crescent moon", made from plywood with a 1/2" x 1/2" frame around.

Bob's "bridge deck" traveler is shown in photo #3.  He made this traveler shorter than the full width of the cockpit in order to keep the control the same as the standard location.  Now that the Class allows the traveler to be located anywhere as long as it does not extend beyond the seats, Bob would now use the full width if for no other reason than to be able to get the mainsheet out of the way when sailing off the wind.  Bob has also made a "short" drop board to close the gap below the trave­ler for rough weather sailing that is pinned in for greater safety.

(Ed note: This short drop board sounds like a great idea. I remember in one regatta when the winds were really honking, putting so much water in the cockpit some flowed over the companionway sill and soaked the cabin floor.)

Picture #4 solves the problem of the Genoa sheets getting hung up on the lifelines when tacking. (Ed note again: I got so fed up with those wretched lifelines when racing I went a step further and removed the life lines and stanchions completely. This looks like a better idea.)

The photo #5 show the neat little cover Bob made to cover that mooring cleat that is always snagging jib and Genoa sheets. Made of wood, held in place with a short length of shock cord that fits under the forward part of the cleat.  Bob has a spinnaker foreguy, that's the block you see just aft of the cleat. Otherwise the cleat guard could be symmetrical.

The last three pictures show the trailer mods to make laun­ching and especially retrieval easier. Made from angle iron and 2 x 10's.

Bob ends his letter with the following.  "....The new rudder has made it so much more pleasant to sail.  In addition to virtually eliminating weather helm, it seems easier to balance the boat with the tiller locked."

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NISS by John Charters

Newport International Sailboat Show to give it its full title.

Eric Spencer (of Yachting Services, the place to buy parts for your Tanzer 22) and I shared a booth at this years show. Eric has this Tinker Dinghy that he sells, you may have noticed it in one of his earlier ads in the Newsletter and I was displaying the "Tank Tender" that I handle for the manufacturer, Hart Systems, for them here In Canada.

Generally we see a lot of Tanzer owners but this year only a couple passed our stand. Perhaps we were in the wrong location. The two Tanzer boats, the 25 and 29, were at the other end of the show. And I guess any Tanzer 22 sailors were over there looking at them as well as all the other boats on display.

For me, though, the highlight of the show was meeting and talking with one of my favorite authors, Tristan Jones. I hoped he might be there, so had brought with me my copy of his "Improbable Journey" which he graciously consented to sign. Also met the chap that was his crew for the better part of journey, Thomas.

If you haven't read any of his books, do yourself a favor, nip down to your local library and borrow a copy.

Controversial - outspoken - calls a spade a bloody shovel - but nonetheless weaves a mighty fine tale.  When I was teaching for the Power Squadron, one of my students told me that he had learned more about seamanship from reading "Ice" than anything the Squadron had to offer.


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Ed Note: The following was taken from the Tanzer 16 Newsletter, written by Commodore Lawrence Miller.  I have condensed it somewhat, and re-arranged the order - otherwise it is as written by Lawrence.

"It really bothers me when I talk to a new sailor who says he doesn't want to race because 'I'm not good enough.'  My first reaction is 'and if you continue to feel that way, you never will be.' The winners are those who wanted to learn to handle boats, to be safe and comfortable in their boats and kept on going for it. I feel MUCH safer, and less self-conscious, in a sailboat race, than in any other endeavor I've ever undertaken. I have a job that demands every last ounce of effort I can give, and much imagination, and I get on the boat to race and 'get away'.  Even though it takes a massive amount of concentration to race well. I find I've had a whole weekend without thinking about my job and it's problems.

I've learned more about sailing from my friends who I race against than I could have ever learned day-sailing with my family, none of whom had ever sailed before, either. I really started learning when my wife met someone who had experience racing and suggested that I call her to crew on race weekends. I`ve learned a tremendous amount from Meg, and am ever grateful for the opportunity to race with her for three seasons, even if she did go and buy a Laser so now she can beat my son.  Now I'm racing with Sandy, who's an experienced Lightning skipper and crew and I feel very comfortable with her."


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Edson have recently introduced a new type of wheel steering, suitable for sailboats with transom hung rudders, like our Tanzer 22.


Known as a R.L.A. (Remote Linear Actuator!) Transom Rudder steerer, weighs 36 lb.  According to the manufacturer the pull-pull conduit assembly makes steering cable installation a snap and eliminates the need for wire sheaves.

If you are thinking of adding a wheel - give Edson a call.


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by John Charters

If you read our last Newsletter you may recall that I men­tioned we now have two Tanzer 22's. One of which is kept here in Baie d'Urfe and the other moored in Rockport Maine.  For those of you that live in Maine, or have cruised the Maine coast, I do not have to explain why we now have a boat in Maine.  But for the rest of you, perhaps the following incident will give you some idea.

Not far from Rockport, probably less than a dozen miles (nautical) are the islands of Islesboro and 700 Acre Island providing a lovely sheltered anchorage between the two. On the Islesboro side, Dark Harbor and across on 700 Acre side, Cradle Cove.

We sailed into Cradle Cove this past summer, after an absen­ce of at least four or five years. There were a number of vacant moorings, we picked up one and after getting the boat organized, rowed ashore to the Dark Harbor Boat Yard, owned by Mike & Carol Macaulay.

The store closes early and when we got there, sure enough, it was closed.  However before many minutes had passed, Carol Macaulay showed up and asked if she could help.  I mentioned I needed a few bits of hardware but nothing too important.  Carol insisted on opening their marine store for me.  We bought what we needed and in casual conversation I mentioned we had run out of wine and did she know if there was a store within walking distance where we could replenish our stock.  Carol told us we were out of luck as there was no store on the island that sold wine.  We paid for our purchases, said good bye and rowed back to Red Baron VI.

About ten minutes later a small power boat came out from shore and stopped at our boat.  With Carol and a bottle of white wine for which she absolutely refused any payment and before we could hardly express properly our thanks, she was gone!

We will always remember this generous act of kindness and will most certainly make a point of visiting Cradle Cove and the Dark Harbor Boat Yard and especially Carol Macaulay whenever our Maine cruise takes us any where near 700 Acre Island.

And if you are ever up that way, be sure to pop in hello.  But before 3.00 p.m. as that is when the store closes. And buy something!  They have a well stocked inventory of hardware, charts and all kinds of boat goodies.

Tell Carol you are a friend of the Red Baron!

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This has been covered before, but as we have many new rea­ders, it is probably worth while printing again.

Hazed or cloudy ports (windows) can often be restored to like new by polishing with "Brasso" or a similar type of brass polish.  When finished, it doesn't hurt to give the ports a coat of boat wax or silicone polish. This will help to keep the Plexiglas clear.

If you do decide it is time to replace the Plexiglas, be sure to buy some new port splines (the gray vinyl gasket that is between the aluminum frame and the Plexiglas) and sponge rubber (goes between the Plexiglas and the inner frame) before you remove the Plexiglas.  Order from Eric Spencer.  As time goes on some of the materials used in the manufacture of the Tanzer 22 may become scarce - I can think of nothing worse than to not be able to get the splines after having removed all the ports.  Check first!  You will need four feet of splines and sponge rub­ber per port.


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When your boat was assembled, the stainless steel hardware was installed with ordinary steel tools.  This often leaves a micro thin layer of non stainless steel on the various fittings and fastenings.  Which rusts! Leaving the owner to think his stainless fittings are rusting.  Rarely so.  A little rubbing compound will remove the offending rust and the ferrous metal restoring the part to its original pristine shine.

To clean the rubrail try acetone.  This will remove all but the deepest stains.  And for those really deep stains, you will probably have to scrape off a few thousands of an inch of vinyl.  A paint scraper is as good a tool as any for this.


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If you are using one of those new plastic (Fabrene, for example) tarps to cover your boat, please try to avoid wrapping up your boat like a cocoon.  Plastic does not breathe as does canvas.  If your boat is wrapped too tight, there is a danger of condensation collecting In the boat. Leave a little breathing space bow and stern.

Fabrene will last a long time if it is not allowed to flap around every time the wind blows.  One way to keep it taut is to hang a weight on the tie lines.  Fill windshield anti-freeze plastic containers with water and tie on.

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More and more boat owners are storing their boats during the winter with the mast up. I do. And why not? Every time you take the mast down you run the risk of damaging something.  How­ever, be warned!  Things do wear out.  At least once a year you should inspect tangs and fittings at the mast head.  Also the spreaders.  Check all swages, the wire stays, clevis pins and particularly the cotter pins.  If one of these lets go during a heavy wind, you may loose your mast.  Which is bad enough but what makes it even worse, there are no more Tanzer 22 mast extrusions left!  Eric has been cutting down Tanzer 26 mast sections for Tanzer 22 masts.  It is the same section but the sail groove is not in the same place.  Better not to have to replace the mast in the first place.  So, a word to the wise.

It is probably a good idea to slacken the forestay and/or the backstay a little for winter storage. This allows the hull to regain its proper shape.  If you have the rigging as tight as I do, for maximum upwind performance, you have probably been trying to pull the bow and stern up to the mast.  But don't have the rigging so loose that the mast "pumps" and flops about every time the wind blows.  Too loose is just as bad as too tight!


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Every once in awhile I see a boat with too much weight resting on the pads (poppets) and not enough on the keel, while being stored on cradle or trailer.  Resulting in the hull being pushed in and distorted.  Not good!  If you can't adjust the pads, try raising the boat slightly with a piece of plywood or similar under the keel.  You can jack the boat up with an ordi­nary hydraulic car jack, or if you have one, a house jack.  The hull on a Tanzer 22 is plenty strong enough.  Place a good stout piece of timber under the hull, just forward of where the keel joins the hull to jack up the bow.  Likewise, the stern.  It is probably easier to raise the front first, slide in a piece of wood under the forward part of the keel, then repeat the operation with the stern.


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And speaking of winter storage, a sad fact of life - more and more boats are being broken into and vandalized each year.  It is better to remove all valuables and leave the boat unlocked.  Teak drop boards are getting scarce, if not unavailable.  Next spring you may not be able to get replacement boards should they be damaged during a break-in.  In fact all teak components for the Tanzer 22 are getting hard to get. Canadian Yacht Builders who make the Tanzer 25 and 29 use very little teak on those two models.  Offhand I can't think of one teak part used that is the same as what is used on the Tanzer 22.  Which means when present stock is exhausted, there will not be any more.  That is not to say they won't make up a special order, but it won't be a priori­ty.  You may have to wait quite a long time.  Before you strip off that old teak to replace with new, check with Eric to be sure it is still available.