No. 72 - April 1987


by Don Anderson

1. WIRING: I have acquired a new distribution panel and inserted it into the wooden bulkhead just above the sink. The rectangular opening does not weaken the bulkhead critically and is much easier to monitor. It has six circuits with breakers and a voltmeter which can be switched on and off. Each circuit switch is coupled with a 58 ma. lamp built in as a signal. This signal is visible from the cockpit.

Improvements could be made on this panel for its use in this location by:

     a. Mounting retro-reflective surfaces on the switch so as to reflect back light entering from rear entrance so that it would signal "on" using daylight.

     b. The 58 ma signal lamp could be made more conservative of battery current by using a properly made lamp of LED's.

2. ICE BOX: This should be changed to be a vertical loading, probably swing out to avoid sacrificing of our meagre shelf space. I believe it could drain right into the bilge and then it should be automatically pumped out by a bilge pump.

3. BILGE PUMP: A bilge pump over the keel is difficult be­cause most bilge pumps are too tall for the space available. The design of plastic over the keel should be shaped so that a normal bilge pump could be put in by cutting a hole part way through the bilge covering board. The bilge exit could be made through the sink drain if it were done in such a way as not to create a siphon which might sink the boat if it started in reverse.

4. WOODEN SIDES: The wooden sides along the after bunks have tended to split and come off - partly due to forces coming from the step. I have glued them back together and replaced the screws with SS bolts, but the glue did not hold them together. I think the wood should be thickened and bolts, not screws, should be used to hold them on.  Could this wood be replaced with fibreglass?

5. BUNK CUSHIONS: When the bunk cushions stay for some time in contact with the Fiberglas bunks, moisture gathers between them. Some change should be contrived to keep this moisture from accumulating. Could the underside of the cushion be covered with some material which would "wick" the water out to where it could dry?


6. WOODEN RAILS [toe rails, etc.] These rails on the top deck have to be removed and recaulked occasionally. I know the toe rails on the foredeck have been replaced, but what about the wooden fittings for the rear hatch, etc. Could they be replaced?


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from Jack Upton #1495

     1. The break in the shear can flood the cockpit when a puff heels the boat. Two small Fiberglas inserts to deploy the water would be a big help at a small cost.

     2. My particular boat is much more effective under the working jib than the genny. A larger working jib mast height might make for a more popular boat.

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MORE FROM Bill Murdock

One of the few things that the Tanzer 22 lacks is a good place to put your sun glasses, stopwatch, hand bearing compass and the thousands of other small items that clutter the cabin and fly from one side of the boat to the other with every tack. To have a place to put all of this junk, I installed pockets in the back of both berths.

Both of them are made basically the same way. A hole is first cut in the hull liner, a plastic container of some sort is attached behind the hole and a teak trim piece is installed over the front of the hole.

The first three pockets were put in the back of the star­board berth. The pockets themselves are made from white Rubber­maid boxes that were made to hold ice cubes in a freezer. The flanges at their openings were cut off and replaced with two nine inch pieces of aluminum trim angle that were attached to the boxes with 3/16 pop rivets. Three holes were then cut in the back of the berth and the boxes were slipped in leaving the aluminum angle exposed in the cabin. This was in turn covered with a piece of teak which was screwed to the hull liner holding everything in place. The holes in the teak trim were made with a coping saw and every thing was rounded with a rasp before sanding and finishing with teak oil.

The port side pockets are larger than the starboard. They are made from two white Rubbermaid plastic vanity trash cans. The top flange was cut off of one long side of the trash cans to allow them to fit tightly against the inside of the settee back. Holes were then cut in both settee back and trash cans. The trash cans were pop riveted [using aluminum backing washers] to the inside of the settee back. A teak trim piece was then made and screwed into place covering the pop rivets and the edges of the holes.

The boat now has places to put small things where they can be easily found, and we can now tack without making a mess down below.

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by Edqar Sherman #1700

It was in 1983 when my decision was made to make the com­mitment to campaign "Dove", in a competitive way, with much larger keel-boats. Since that decision, I have evaluated every aspect of the boat from the precise angle of the wind indicator at the masthead [which is set only for the downhill legs] to every nut and bolt aboard.

My commitment required me to do everything legally possible to increase boat speed. She had to be taken to the point where she would give every ounce she had and then give some more. The goal was to have her sail at peak speed every second.


To make her this fast, three primary areas needed to be brought to perfection keeping in mind weight, quality and accessibility. These areas are what I call the basic ABC's. They are [A] deck layout, [B] wetted surface and [C) sail inventory.  Not having seen other Tanzer 22's, the improvements to all three areas are original.

There seems to be some interest in bottom prep [B), so I'd like to share my thoughts on the meanest, dirtiest, most uncom­fortable and lonely activity known to man.  The first thing an owner must do is come to grips with the fact that, although the keel design is excellent and ahead of her time [lots of weight way down low - i.e. Tom Blackallers 12 meter USA], the manufacturer probably hung a wavy, pitted and ill fitting hunk of ugly cast iron underneath Miss Precious.

After this realization and because one must work in a very toxic environment to correct this hunk of iron, one must acquire the proper personal protection. Wetted surface work is dangerous to your eyes, skin and lungs. Be sure and get a safety approved mask which covers mouth and nose. I use a 3M model number which filters vapors. I am sure dust will not enter. The unit has replaceable filters. Wear good eye protection, a hat, ear protection, gloves and a long sleeve shirt. You will look like a Monster Beast.

Next, realize the products you choose to use in the repair and fairing process have what is known as a shelf life.  This means the product is not good if it has been sitting for a long time on the shelf. Call each product manufacturer and find out how to determine the shelf life from their code on the can. Use only production sand paper until you get down to wet sanding.

Follow these steps for keel fairing as part of the ABC's.

1.   TIGHTENING: Go inside the cabin and locate the 10 keelbolts. You will be amazed at how loose they are. Take them out one at a time, inspect for stress cracks, clean, recaulk and replace. Be sure and do this one bolt at a time so the hunk of steel will not drop off her underside. To be safe you can re­place the old ones with new bolts.

Tighten each bolt to 125 foot pounds with a torque wrench.  Do this cylinder head fashion. After this tightening go under the boat and inspect the keel flange on both sides. You will probably find most of the bolts protruding up to 1/4" through the flange.

2. GRINDING: Rent or borrow a heavy duty portable side grinder with a heavy duty cup grinding wheel and find someone to show you exactly how to use it. A grinder is heavy and cuts best when held at a certain angle to the steel. This weight gets very uncomfortable in a hurry.

Grind the protruding keelbolt tips and the flange until it is flush with adjoining hull shape. This is a job only for a Monster Beast.

Before starting to grind, be sure and cover the entire deck because steel dust goes everywhere. If it settles on the deck you probably won't be able to see it until moisture turns your deck orange [rust]. The grinding job is dirty, difficult, dusty, strenuous and mean. "It's dark and lonely work but somebody's got to do it!"

Proceed to grind any other exaggerated high places on the keel, especially around the trailing edge. Shape the trailing edge legally and according to class rules. Everything needs to be symmetrical, certainly the vortex. The fastest trailing edge is usually a 1/8" wide and flat surface from top to bottom. Some shaping can be done with fairing compound at a later time. [Don't forget the bottom of the keel.]

3. CLEANING: Remove all caulk from the keel/hull joint.  Now go back to the joint with a sharp hawk bill knife and get out ALL the old caulk.

4. POLISHING: Sandblasting is best or belt sand with #36 grit [coarse] the entire keel including its bottom. Sand until you see bright, shiny metal and before your next breath apply In­terlux 402/414 steel epoxy primer, This, and only this, is THE product International makes for cast iron. Call International at 1-800-223-0154 and ask for Customer Service. This is your immediate barrier against oxidation [rust], so be sure and coat every spot. It takes two or three coats for a good job. A note on sanding - sand until you are satisfied with your work and then sand some more. It's a dark and lonely work, etc.

5. FAIRING: Put a polyethylene plastic plate [very thin] in the keel/hull joint, because nothing sticks to polyethylene. Use Pettit #7025 and #7020 two part polypoxy fairing compound [201 625-3100] and coat the entire surface up to 1/8" thick. Then sand this product until you have a perfectly smooth and symmetrical keel. If you happen to sand through to bright metal reprime the spot. The important things are:

1. Smooth-flush keel flange and hull adjoinment. [Forget joint for now.]

2. Smooth bottom of keel.

3. Smooth curvature at top [try rolling production paper around a rolled up small sponge].

4. Smooth sweeping 1/8" thick trailing edge.

5. Smooth symmetrical vortex. You can check for low places by holding a straight edge up to the surface and looking for daylight.


6. CAULKING: Use only Sikaflex 240 or 241 to caulk the keel/hull joint for it is made for below waterline. It cures well, it will dry hard, is flexible, can be sanded smooth and painted. Do not put fairing compound in this joint. Should the keel find a submerged surface like the bottom, if fairing compound is in the joint, it will cause undue stress on the hull. For information on Sikaflex call Sika Corp at 1-800-323-5920.

7. INSPECTION: Assuming the hull is free of blisters and faired, inspect every square inch of wetted surface for imper­fections being very critical. Repair the smallest spot and sand smooth. You want to have a sharp edge where the shelf at the stern, for that is the hydrodynamically fastest shape.


8. DESERT: Coat the entire wetted surface with your favorite flavor coal tar epoxy in multi coats. Then apply your favorite anti-fouling coating. Dove uses VC coal tar epoxy and VC 17 Tropicanna. Call Baltic Marine at 312 645-0999. Before anything touches the bottom of the keel, put a thin plate of polyethylene under. Also put polyethylene [garbage bags] over popits or support post pads.

If can't resist the temptation to hire a security guard to keep an eye on her until you get her wet, you will sleep like a baby.  When she hits the water she will come alive and be very, very fast. You will then be free to think about the easy parts of the ABC's for a Tanzer 22.