No. 32 - June 1978


Al Ballman


I have used the Honda 7.5 for one season in bay and ocean and agree that it's a great little motor. I have not experienced any problem of water getting into the motor while underway. I suspect if this is occurring it's probably the result of having the motor bracket mounted too low. As the boat gets up to top speed the stern tends to settle and what might have been the correct height while the boat is idle is now too low. Honda suggests an immersion depth of about 4 cm above the anti-cavitation plate. My bracket is mounted about 4 cm from the bottom of the rub rail, in the down position (about 29 cm) the motor is immersed to the suggested depth.


CENTREBOARD AND SALT WATER - My boat sails only in salt water and I find no problem with the CB provided it is used occasionally. If it is left in the up position, sand, dirt, barnacles, etc. can cause it to stick. Concerning the cable, be sure that there is enough cable on the drum so that when the board is fully down you still have a few turns left. This way, even if you accidentally release the winch and the board goes down full speed there is a good chance the cable will not break. The CB winch handle has a way of slipping from your hands occasionally and it can be a knuckle buster!



Renee Gloutney, 25l 3e Boul., Terrasse Vaudreuil, P.Q. 453-5057


Note: In the Montreal area, Renee recommends obtaining supplies from Tissus Jan-Mar, 59, ge Ave., Terrasse Vaudreuil, P.Q. 514-453­3233.


With the arrival of spring, now is the time to get started on all the things you promised to do for the summer. Things to improve your comfort when cruising. Things like cockpit cushions, for instance.


Cockpit cushions are not very hard to make. With the right material, time and patience, everything will be all right! At least, it should!


Here is a list of the material, needed to make five (5) cushions:

1) foam; 2) 5 yards of material, 60" wide; 3) 40 yards of macrame cord (optional); 4) 5 zippers; 5) thread.


1) FOAM: Sears Catalogue sells what they call a very firm mattress, 54" x 72" x 1" for $18.98 (Canada). This is exactly what you need for five cushions:


2 cushions = 51" x 20" x 1"

2 cushions = 36" x 21" x 1"

1 cushion = 30" x 12" X 1"


2) MATERIAL: You may use stretch or non-stretch material to make your cushions. If you use stretch-terry, which is the stretchiest kind you could use, remember to cut it one inch smaller than your foam measurements.


3) MACRAME CORD: A corded edge on your cushions is optional. If you want it, jute cord for macrame, medium size, is strong and inex­pensive.


4) ZIPPERS: Plastic zippers are preferable because they don't rust. Your cushions are not supposed to get wet: but if your husband likes to test them by broaching once in a while, use plastic!


5) THREAD: Polyester thread is the best.


You will need to design 3 patterns to cut your foam and your material. If you have trouble, I will be glad to send you copies of mine.



Cut 4 with pattern no. 1

Cut 4 with pattern no. 2

Cut 2 with pattern no. 3




Cut 16 yards of 1 1/2" wide strips to cover the thickness of the cushions.


Cut 32 yards of 1" wide strips to cover the macrame cord. (Use all. the remnants.)



*All seams have a 1/4" seam allowance, for stretchy material. If you use non-stretch,1/2” allowance is necessary.

A) Sew together all your 1 inch strips, to make 32 yards. Fold in half - wrong sides together, inserting the macrame cord, and sew very close to the cord, using a zipper foot.


B) Sew together all your 1 1/2" strips, to make 16 yards. With right sides together, sew the top of the cushion to the side, inserting the covered macrame cord. Do the same for the bottom of the cushion. NOTE: Experts can do steps A and B in one operation.


C) Determine the location of the zipper. Slash an opening on the side of the cushion cover, and sew your zipper in place.

Turn to the right side, fit your foam inside, and that is it! You are ready to cruise in style.


Advantages of material covered cushions: 1) Cool and soft in the sun. (You don't have to run for a towel on a hot sunny day.) 2) Washable. 3) Easy to put on and take off.


Disadvantages: Take a long time to dry when soaked. (After one of those broaches!)


Couturieres, a l'oeuvre!

Bonne Chance!




(How it's done at the factory)


Relatively light through deck fastenings (3/16" – 1/4" bolts or machine screws) on which you're going to put a cap nut will usually need shortening after the fitting has been installed. The easy way to do this is to use a flat nut first. Drill and caulk in the usual way, tighten up with a flat nut and washer. Then, grip the excess of the bolt with vice-grips and bend back and forth until it breaks off. Replace the flat nut with the cap nut and tighten. Removal of the flat nut re threads the screw, and the remaining thread is the correct length for a cap nut.




WHO TOLD US? That you can use 8' toboggan cushions for nifty cock­ pit cushions. In Canada, you can get them at a decent price from Canadian Tire.




Mike Nicoll-Griffith


Here's another solution (see February, 1978, no. 30). Because you can't drill a large hole in the top of the mast for the light, I used sheet aluminum from the drip tray of an old refrigerator for mine.


I cut and folded the aluminum to form a small box on top of the mast, and put the light in that.


Just cut out the shape (try with a piece of cardboard first), drill the holes, fold on the dotted lines, screw it on with self tappers.




Richard L. Day


YACHTING Magazine says they do. The correct answer is that stainless steel, which is used in glasses frames, does not upset a compass magnet significantly UNLESS in some weird way the frames have become magnetized by being left near the little magnet that holds toll booth quarters for toll gates on. U.S.A. Route 95.


What to do? It's easy. Just de-magnetize the frames with the de­magnetizer used every 40 hours or so on tape or cassette recorders/ players. But be sure to remember the directions. Plug in the de­magnetizer for no more than 2 minutes. Start by holding the probe a foot from the glasses frame, and bring it up until it touches the frame, and you feel a 60 cycle vibration. Touch all parts of the frame. After this process, test the frames near a compass and if magnetism is still left, repeat the process. Stainless steel that has not been magnetized has almost no influence on a compass needle, and that little occurs only when less than an inch away.


You can buy the de-magnetizer at most radio supply stores. Good luck, and steady bearings!




Eugene Buell, no. 381: 21 Greenwood Ave., Essex Jct., Vt. 05452


The door assembly affords an extra 9" of room in the head compart­ment, without which a solid door is impractical. Its main feature is the overhead bar assembly which automatically folds the leaf flat against the door when it is open. The addition of a friction catch keeps it secured when closed, and a magnetic catch under the dinette table secures it when open. When open, the whole assembly folds flat, leaving the passageway clear, but blocking the seat, forward of the table.



The door assembly consists of three major pieces: A) a solid piece of teak 3/4" x 9 1/2" x 47", which is bolted to the locker on the port side. Spacers may be required. Mahogany could be used - it hardly shows. B) The door itself is hinged against "A" as shown in "hinge detail" on the diagrams. Constructed of Marlite wall board and teak frame. C) The folding leaf, which is purposely left thin to maintain maximum passageway clearance. I used 1" marlite but teak would look better.


Use 3/4" teak for the solid member and door trim. White Marlite paneling matches the Tanzer interior and is used for the door centre panel. Install hinges exactly as shown and use at least three to hang the leaf. Use pop rivets on the paneling. Careful installation of the overhead bar assembly and the hinges is vital to prevent binding when opening and closing the door.


Measurements as given are for my boat; but it would be wise to check clearance on your boat for door swing and headroom. (Headroom is reduced by about l" when the mast and shrouds are set up. Allow for it!)


I added the teak grating for added ventilation and appearance. It is not necessary for a successful installation.






Mike Leiter


I had to open my big mouth. I was discussing the Tanzer 22 Hurri­cane Nationals with Sally and bemoaning all my stupid mistakes. She talked me into writing this treatise on honing your sailing skills. The sole responsibility for the addition of this article in our sacred Newsletter lies with Mrs. Ranti.


My sailing experience was very limited, bordering on the non-existent, when I purchased no. 618. By the way, the purchase of a T22 was also on her insistence. (See how she meddles in my life?)


After cruising on the sullied and spoiled waters of Lake St. Louis for three hours and 14 minutes, I decided I was ready to try racing. At the PCYC bar I asked an expert (probably the custodian) if the regatta scheduled for Sunday would be a good race to start with. He answered in the affirmative.


I always like to be on time, so we arrived at the starting area with working jib, no. 2, main sail, pencil and paper, inexperienced crew, and a chart of Lake St. Louis, approximately two days before the start. Actually, two hours was more like it. We started out two days earlier, but it took 45 hours to sail to the line. A distance of some two nautical miles.


After hearing enough gun shots to start World War III, I could "wait no more" and crossed the line on starboard, following a Tanzer 26. I had actually crossed the line (the wrong way) four times before, but this proved to be ineffective. Starting with a Tanzer 26 really meant that I crossed 2 classes, or 10 minutes early. Even with this terrific advantage (10 minutes) we were overtaken by the complete Tanzer 22 fleet half way up the beat. As each one went by, the skipper's superiority was reconfirmed by informing me that I had crossed the line early.


Soon after rounding the weather mark, we lost sight of the fleet. The race took 6 hours. It would have been helpful if the expert in the bar had informed me that the race I was about to enter was a long distance race. No matter: we were back at dockside after three hours of avoiding collisions and swearing at each other.


On the brighter side, by being stupid, you can force yourself to smarten up fast. That day I learned three months of sailing in three hours. The summer finished with a few other feeble attempts at racing.


My second season was different. I read all winter; but, unfor­tunately, read the sailing section of Ladies' Home Journal. I bought a no. 1 Genoa, spinnaker and gear, and entered about 8 or 10 races. We really had a ball. We finished mostly in the middle of the fleet - except when we didn't. There were no major cata­strophes, and much was learned by us few.


Which brings me to the purpose of this article: Sell your boat and take up cricket! No, seriously: Try racing. I found that my sailing skills, as limited as they were and still are, improved much faster because of my racing. Racing forces you into situations that by choice you would probably avoid. Once out there, you have to deal with the situation - and in the process, you learn a great deal.


Here is a partial list of what I learned: 1) Never race with your wife. 2) Never drink earlier than two hours before the start of a race. 3) Never use your motor when the Committee Boat can see you. 4) Never start a race near John Charters or Ian Davidson. 5) Always start early if you think you can get away with it. 6) Never yell "PORT!" unless you're holding a glass.