No. 31 - April 1978

 

SO! IT'S HERE! And it's not a Pop-Top. It's a convertible hatch, and the hit of the Montreal Boat Show. Enthusiasm is running high for a very simple, very neat set of options that will give you 1) a fold-up-tip-up hatch to provide standing headroom almost up to the mast and 2) if you also want it, a snap-on, canvas dodger type spray hood deal, with plastic windows, zips, etc. to enclose all this lovely new head room. You could get along nicely without it by using your sun-awning over the boom. This part is $200 - quite cheap, considering the price of normal spray hoods. The hatch part will be $190 and includes heavy teak runners to strengthen the deck. Factory fitted on a new boat, the whole deal is $285. Tanzer Industries will provide retro-fit instructions for you to read so you can see what's involved. About 18 hours of factory labour at $20 an hour would install it. So do it yourself. All you need is courage to cut your deck, the kit, a tape measure and a saw. If we can get photos and/or drawings in time, they'll be with this Newsletter. If not, see the next issue. This improvement is great. I haven't been so enthusiastic about anything since the boat itself. With this convertible hatch, the boat FEELS as nice inside as it looks outside. Gals - you can now STAND UP TO COOK!!!!!

 

LEFT

The new hatch - seen closed. Replacing the forward deck is a "hood" into which the regular hatch slides. Shown here, also - the aluminum frame that holds the optional vinyl dodger, as well as the line with clips that fastens to the mast.

 

RIGHT

The hatch and "hood" in the up position, held open by the dodger frame. (Note: the hatch can as easily be held open by the line shown in the above photo. Also see the photo below.) You will note that the deck has been cut forward, almost to the mast, then finished with a heavy teak moulding all around. This not only gives a finished look to the conversion, but also serves to strengthen the deck. With the hatch up, in this position, one can stand comfortably in the galley area.

 

 

LEFT

The optional dodger in position, with the hatch up. There are windows on both sides, with roll up flaps inside that can be lowered for privacy. Also (shown lying on top of the dodger) a zip in nylon screen that closes off the rear of the "dodger, also with a roll down flap to keep out the rain, and prying eyes.

 


 

ADJUSTABLE BACKSTAYS

Don Sutherland

 

I should state quite positively now that I am in favour of backstay adjusters. There are more than just two of us who have them. (5-7 in Toronto area). The backstay adjuster was not standard with the ¼ Ton design. It was a factory-installed option of Tanzer Industries which was also available on the regular 22 models. In all our club racing (excluding T22 events) back stay adjusters are permitted and they are used by the majority of the competitors. This item has become an essential piece of equipment for sailors who are trying to get maximum performance from their boats, especially in varying wind conditions and on various headings or tacks. The fact that Tanzer Industries still offers this item as a factory installed option on stock boats indicates that this is not just an "exotic" extra as described by Sutherland. One Tanzer in question added his own back­stay adjuster for $100 on a stock 22 model.

 

Allowing the use of back stay adjusters does not set a precedent by opening a wave of changes which would destroy the class as pointed out by Sutherland. Rather, it would enable people to buy a boat which would let them be competitive not only with Tanzer 22s but with boats from other classes as well.

 

Incidentally, the boats which have backstay adjusters have not won all the races. In the past year not one Tanzer 22 with a backstay adjuster has won any of the MYRC races on Lake Ontario (8 races). In the Lake Ontario and Ontario Regional Championships my boat won both regattas only after agreeing before the races that I would not use my adjuster. (Ed. note: standard practice in Class events.)

 

I have spoken to many sailors of different classes, not only Tanzers, who agree that a backstay adjuster comes under the same heading as a mainsheet traveller, boom vang, cunningham, etc. These items are all permitted under Class rules with the exception of the backstay adjuster. All of these items allow a skipper to play with the many variables of speed. The use of an adjustable back stay would not kill the Class, nor would it escalate costs to a high extreme. We should not apply stubborn logic to preserve the status quo.

 

 

TRAILERING

Don Sutherland

 

Our towing vehicle has been an ancient Toyota Land Cruiser which weighs about 3400 pounds. It doesn't have sufficient room for people and much gear, so everything must be stowed on the boat while trailering, obviously making the trailer weight considerably greater than the towing vehicle's. This, however, is no problem due to our heavy-duty load equalizing hitch which makes it easy to keep every­thing under control. Although I much prefer electric brakes for trailering, they aren't suitable for repeated immersion, so our trailer is equipped with surge-type hydraulic brakes. They do an adequate job, but the December issue of YACHTING carries a warning that the hydraulic reservoir may allow water in through its vent. I hadn't thought of this, and will have to check our unit in the spring.

 

We have Bearing Buddies on the trailer hubs to keep water from the bearings. For single axle trailers, an idea that can profitably be borrowed from travel trailers is a set of skids mounted on the chassis next to the wheels that will support the trailer in the event of a flat tire or loss of a wheel. I can't speak from experience, but they are supposed to aid in maintaining control and helping prevent damage to the tire and rim.

 

Here's a tip for keel/CB boats which may be launched without dis­connecting the trailer from its normal towing hook-up: Be sure to disconnect the trailer wire from the auto before launch. Even though headlights are off, the brake lights will probably flash during launching, and the current (electrical) flowing under water encourages corrosion.

 

The ramp where we launch slopes down to a depth of about 5', then levels off. The method of allowing the trailer to roll back attached to a rope is ineffective there because the trailer must be pushed far enough on the level to float the boat on and off easily. Our solution is a tongue extension with ball mounted far enough forward to provide a light but positive downward pressure on the hitch end. We have a front bumper ball on the Land Cruiser. When such an installation is possible it provides quite precise control of the track the trailer follows while being backed. Further, it keeps the exhaust pipe and traction wheels out of the water for greater power. On level ground, this tongue extension, with its pneumatic tires, makes it possible to move the trailer easily by hand.

 

To aid in lifting the bow when the water isn't quite deep enough to float the boat all the way onto the trailer, we have two sets of rollers mounted forward. The lower set is fixed, while the upper set is pivoted. Experience has shown that the upper (forward) set of rollers should be mounted slightly farther aft than in initial design to ensure lifting the bow eye far enough to prevent it from hanging up on the stop mounted on the trailer mast. This system allows the keel to move forward to its proper resting place on the trailer as the rig is pulled from the water, with little or no weight resting on the rollers. This is important to prevent "hooking" the hull.

 

The factory-supplied crutch was lengthened slightly and a roller installed to aid in single-handed mast raising. With all tie-downs removed, one person can pick up the mast at the heel and walk it aft on the roller until the bolt can be placed in the mast step. The slight extension of the mast crutch raises the mast enough so that the hatch slides open with the mast supported at the step and roller. This could be used when motoring under bridges, etc. The mast crutch fits on the rudder gudgeons, with a padded block to hold it against the stern rail in a vertical position. Another padded block just below the upper gudgeon prevents it from pivoting on the pintles. A line running from near the top of the crutch to the aft mooring cleats supports the crutch laterally, and by holding it against the stern rail also-provides fore and aft support. The mast is held on the roller by another length of shock cord.

 

The rudder is carried attached to the stern rail. Having the rudder, boom and spinnaker pole out of the way enables us to have full use of the cockpit and interior at all times. All supporting blocks, crutch, etc. are normally left in the Land Cruiser except for the hooks that hold the boom on the lifeline; they are aluminum and have negligible weight. If we anticipated having to motor under bridges we would carry the crutch with us.

To carry our gas tank and to comply with USCG regulations, a simple frame of teak is bolted to the aft seat, and the tank is held firmly in place with shock cord.

 

 

MAST RAISING (Woodward)

Although mast raising has been covered before, it might bear repeating for the benefit of newcomers. Once the mast hinge bolt has been secured, we rig the spinnaker pole as a gin pole. The boom would serve in the absence of a pole. One end of the pole is snapped to the halyard bale on the mast, and the other end is attached to the jib halyard. It is important to raise the jib halyard slightly so that the eye with the rope tail attached isn't forced through the sheave at the masthead. A spinnaker sheet is attached to the end of the pole with the jib halyard, reaved through a snatch block attached to the stem fitting, and taken aft to a winch. Although a secondary (working jib) winch would do, we prefer to use the Genoa turning block and primary winch for greater ease and security, since our primaries are two-speed. We have an adjustable backstay always attached, and if there is experienced help along I don't attach anything else at this point. The crewperson can hold the spinnaker pole to keep it pointing fore-and-aft as the mast is winched up, or even cocking it slightly to weather if necessary to keep the mast straight as it comes up. When the mast is erect, some additional strain is put on the spinnaker pole rig to make it easy to attach the forestay. After this, the shrouds are attached and we're in business.

 

Raising the mast single-handed or in a brisk crosswind requires slightly different technique. As has been pointed out in previous articles, the chainplates are not in line with the mast hinge bolt, so the shrouds cannot be attached normally during raising and lowering. A solution previously mentioned is to mount pad eyes just aft of the chain plates, directly athwartship of the hinge bolt, so that a pair of shrouds may be attached as the mast pivots. In our case, the upper shrouds were accidentally cut 2" short, so that we use toggles to attach them to the chainplate. This shortness allows the lower clevis pin of the shroud to be tied securely to the handrail in line with the hinge bolt.

 

The spinnaker pole can be held securely by running a line from it to each handrail at a point in line with the hinge, and now one person can easily raise the mast. All of this process is reversed for lowering. I have lowered the mast by myself in a brisk cross­wind and had it rest directly in the roller on the crutch without any additional assistance.

 

We follow standard mast tuning technique. To allow the mast to be reset easily to the same tuning each time, we loosen only the star­board shrouds when lowering the mast. 14 turns on the upper and 7 on the lower shroud turnbuckle provides enough slack to remove the clevis pins easily. The locknuts are tightened and taped at this position to prevent any change from vibration while trailering.

 

One thing should maybe be added to the required equipment for trailer launching a fin keel model: a sign saying, "Yes, we've launched this here before!"

 

 

CRUISING WORDS FROM THE NEWFOUNDLAND DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH ­Reading the mail with you.

Jim Roberts, MD

 

Old Peulican is one Hell of a place to sail a T22 with only roller reefing. Old Peulican lies at the head of the Bay de Ve?de (type next time, Jim!) Peninsula, between Conception and Trinity Bays, sticking right out into ye olde North Atlantic. Trinity Bay is very deep and wide, and exposed, and where I sail. A 20 MPH breeze (called a "good day" here as it's usually windier) against the tide (in or out of the bay) can raise a 12-15 foot sea within 3 hours. As it takes 5 hours to cross the bay under most circumstances, things can get pretty hairy. Still and all, we've had much fun, no tragedies, and the boat stands up well. It would make a good life boat (of the going-out-to-rescue-people sort) had it an inboard motor. ("Horror," "Shame", say you.)

 

Some problems seem insuperable: 1) The motor. 2) Where to put seasick hunting dogs. 3) How not to shoot away the rigging when hunting ducks. 4) Where to stow 500 lbs. of slimy and smelly cod fish when you have a good day jigging fish for the winter. 5) Staying warm - inside or out - in March. This is an anticipated problem. The anticipated solution is Newfy Screech or similar spirits.

 

I don't just hunt and fish with "Diana". The upper end of the Bay is glorious cruising in deep sounds, with beautiful scenery and many beautiful, abandoned, communities. It would take weeks to see it all.

 

 

A VERY FINE NEW CANADIAN CRUISING GUIDE TO LAKE ONTARIO: "Great Lakes Ports of Call - Lake Ontario" covers the north shore of Lake Ontario and includes information such as charts of small harbours with approach descriptions, emergency phone numbers, weather infor­mation, things to do and see in each town. $4.95 + .45 postage. Upper Canada Advertising & Publishing, Ltd., 460 Brant St., Suite 207, Burlington, Ont. L7R 4B6. Write and ask what other Great Lakes are covered.

 

 

TRAILERING TIP

Charlie Smith

 

T22-435 is a keel centreboard model, and I have a Harcar trailer. When I am retrieving in a cross wind with any kind of wave action, it is very easy to get askew of the trailer. When this happens, the bow of the boat pounds into the 2" angle iron "keel guides" of the trailer. This chews up the bottom about 2 or 3 feet forward of the keel.

 

I propose to correct this situation by padding as follows:

 


 

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