No. 30 - February 1978

WHY ONE DESIGN?

John Charters, Past President

 

Surely, one of the most difficult tasks facing a Class Association, particularly its Executive, is how to walk the narrow line between flexibility and rigidity.

 

There is no question about it, some fine class boats have died because of a too rigid policy, a refusal to keep up with technology and change. It is my opinion that even more classes have faded into obscurity because they have allowed too many changes, too fast.

 

A case in point: The Flying Scot. There is no question that in its size range there are cheaper boats . . . faster boats . . . prettier boats . . . more comfortable boats . . . and so on. But where are they? Nowhere! They come, they go. And the Flying Scot goes on and on. It is quite probably the most active and popular Class on the continent. It is, in fact, a model upon which many other Classes build their own Associations. Why this outstanding success? Very simply, the Flying Scots have maintained their one-design outlook. Very, very few changes have been allowed over the years. As a result, there are 3,000 Flying Scots with 129 active Fleets. A record to be envied.

 

Another popular Class is the Albin Vega 27, with well over 3000 boats sailing, no changes in specifications since the first boat - which is just as competitive as hull no. 3000 - and, in Europe, a strong Class Association and good one-design racing. The boat is an older design, enduring, though “obsolete". It is the Volkswagen of European waters.

 

The entire concept of one-design racing is to try - so far as is humanly possible - to make all the boats equal and to provide a contest between skippers. This is what your Class Executive has tried to do since the Class was formed in 1970. By and large, I think we have succeeded. This is not to say that we won't continue to explore changes and modifications. Anything that will improve the safety and comfort, seaworthiness and handling should be given consideration.

 

However, changes designed to increase boat speed should be examined very closely before being given the go-ahead. I direct your attention to Article III of our Constitution, which says, in part, " . . .  to prevent design changes intended to outclass boats now constituting the Tanzer 22 Class." What more can I say? Our boats are fast boats that can be cruised and/or raced. It has never been thought that our boats are, or will be, IOR racing machines.

 

 

KNOTMETER

Jack Munsey

 

I recently installed the EMS U25K knot meter. I used a Sears Roebuck adjustable hole saw, attached to the electric drill. I tested for perfect size by drilling some test holes in some scrap wood. Mounted the thru-hull fitting directly under the head compartment, centered fore and aft, and slightly off center the other way, after cutting a 9"x9" access through the liner with a skill saw. I bedded with EXIDE Flex Caulk. I suggest that you save the plug removed as evidence" of hull quality to show off should you sell your boat someday.

 

COCKPIT SEAT DRAINS

Charles Bowen, MD, RD2 Grove Lane, Shelburne, Vt. 05482

I used flexible plastic tubing with ample caulking all around with SS hose clamps.

 

I used bronze in the seat gutter as it was thinner and allowed the water to flow in more easily. Nylon is lighter.

 

I've used the boat an entire summer without needing to bail or pump after installing the drains as above. Yes, I've had water, lots of it:

 

 

 

MORE ON MILDEW - also from Charles: I added a 4" diameter Nicro Fico vent over the sink area and had no mildew all summer. The vent comes with a deck plate to seal the hole when sailing. I also placed one under the tiller to ventilate the locker area. Through the deck plate I now have access to the aft storage area, and I no longer need to crawl into the depths of the locker to get the gas hose pulled in or pushed out. It can easily be reached through this fitting.

 

INSTALLING A MASTHEAD LIGHT

Robert Kumbera

 

MATERIALS NEEDED

 

1 1" round dowel

1 3" x 4" 1/4inch plywood

1 12 ga. 2" x 14 stainless steel

2 1/4x20xl round head stainless bolts

30' 16 ga. 2-strand wire (hi-fi hook-up wire with clear plastic cover works fine)

1 2 prong trailer wire disconnect

1 anchor lite (E&B Marine, Perth Amboy, NJ. catalogue no. 1101) 1 small can of white auto poly repair putty or fibreglass repair putty

poly resin or paint

2 no. 6 wood screws 1" old candle stubs

 

TOOLS NEEDED

several small drills 1/4x20 tap

screwdriver

rough and smooth wood rasps sandpaper

rattail file

paint can and paint brush sabre and jig saw

pencil and ruler

compasses

soldering iron or gun and solder

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1.    Disassemble anchor light and lay ring on plywood blank.

2.    Center ring with edge touching 3" end of plywood. Draw pencil line around ring.

3.    Centre stainless strip on centre of circle and draw pencil line down each edge. Use compasses to add reverse curves. You should now have a drawing that looks like Figure “B”.

4.    When satisfied with results, cut out plywood blank and file or sand edges smooth.

5.    Lay ring back on blank and mark location of mounting holes. Be certain that the back hole is on centreline of blank. Drill mounting holes in blank.

6.    Lay blank on stainless and scribe curvature of front edge and location of holes.

7.    Drill mounting holes and file curvature to match mounting ring. When satisfied that mounting holes match ring holes, drill a hole in centre of the mounting holes on the stainless to allow the lamp socket to pass through and not touch the stainless. If you do not have a drill large enough to do this, drill several small holes in a circle and file edges smooth.

8.    Round one end of the round dowel. Cut the dowel longer than the lamp socket by at least 5/8". Be careful not to cut it too large. Screw the plug to the plywood blank with the wood screws. Centre it between the mounting holes. Insert the mounting nuts and bolts for the anchor light in the plywood blank.

9.    When you are satisfied that the blank looks like figures "A" and "B", carefully cover the wood on the side the bolts are on by dripping melted candle wax on the wood. Be careful not to get any wax on the bolt threads.

10.  Be certain nuts are screwed on the bolts between one half and one third of the distance from the plywood. Mix the poly putty according to directions and cover the wax surfaces, trying to achieve a rough shape of figure "CIf. Use more putty than necessary for the finished dimensions.

11.  Let the putty harden over night. Carefully pry the wood blank away from the putty, after unscrewing the 3 mounting bolts. Insert the stainless strip on the mold and remount with the bolts. Use washers if necessary to obtain a tight fit.

12.  Rough file the shape of the mold to final dimensions and add additional putty to fill in rough spots and to fair stainless to the mold. Be careful that the nuts are not exposed during this step. If they are, add enough putty around them to ensure that they will remain in the body of the mold.

13.  When satisfied with the shape of the mold sand it with finer and finer paper until surface is smooth. Drill a 3/16" hole in the bottom of the mold to pass the light wires through and to allow water to escape.

14.  Coat the putty with several coats of poly resin or paint. If white putty was used the poly resin will give the mold the appearance of aluminum. Dry for several days.

15.  The 14" length of stainless will allow you to mount a wind pennant on the opposite end. It is also possible to mount a radio antenna on top of the mast. If an antenna is mounted, the stainless must be made longer to allow clearance for the wind pennant. The mounting holes for these items should be drilled now. If an antenna is mounted, the antenna mounting holes will be used to mount the stainless strip also. Otherwise, 2 mounting holes will have to be drilled in the centre of the stainless strip to mount it to the mast head.

16.  Mount the light and wind pennant to the stainless. Be certain all nuts and bolts are tight. Cut the wires from the lamp socket and the 2-prong disconnect, then solder the wires together and wrap the splices with electrical tape. The plug should project about 5 or 6 inches from the lamp mo1d. Snake the 16 ga. wire through the mast. By starting at the top of the mast, you can clear all the halyards without having to drill a hole through the side of the mast to lead the wire through. Attach the mate to the plug to the wire at the top of the mast in the same manner as you did to the anchor light wires.

17.  Lead the wire out of the hole in the base of the mast that the mast head light comes out of. If you untie the knots in the masthead light wire and re-tie it with both wires, with the use of a few pieces of electrical tape placed in the proper places, you will have a very neat wire at the base of the mast. The plug of the mast head light is a four prong plug. Use the 2 empty sockets for the new anchor light.

18.  Remove the cap and rubber grommet from the thru-deck plug and carefully work a piece of wire about 6' long through the opening into the cabin. Be sure you pass the wire through the cap ad grommet first. Replace cap and grommet and tighten to waterproof the opening.

19.  If you have a spare switch on your switch panel, wire the new anchor light wire to it. Otherwise, you will have to install a switch and fuse for them.

20.  Lay the stainless strip on the mast head and mark where the rivets on the mast head are on the stainless. File out clearance holes with the rattai1 file. When the stainless fits, drill mounting holes in the mast head and tap the holes with a 1/4x20 tap. A no. 7 drill is the proper one for a 1/4" tap.

21.  Mount the stainless strip (and antenna, if used) with bolts just long enough to go into the mast head without interfering with the halyard wires.

 


 

IN DEFENCE OF THE SCHAEFFER ROLLER FURLING SYSTEM

Philip Mongeau

 

. . .  There is a right way and a wrong way to use this system or it can cause problems. Trying to furl the jib in the lee of the main, while running down wind is a no-no. The sag in the luff of the jib pushes forward which causes fouling the sail on the forestay when you try and roll it up. If you are head to wind, the sag is away from the forestay and won't foul.

 

A sail which is furled in heavy air is usually set under the same conditions, in which case there is one more thing to consider. When you're setting the jib in anything more than 15 knots of wind and simply let go of the furling line, the jib will unroll very fast. This can cause the furling line to roll up very loosely and unevenly on the drum. It can jam just like a winch, with crossed turns. This problem is easily solved by maintaining some tension on the furling line as the sail unrolls (I strongly recommend gloves for this pro­cedure). This gives you a nice tightly wound drum that shouldn't give you any trouble at all. After one season with this system, I'd never consider parting with it.

 

 

IN PRAISE OF SELOX TRAILERS

Robert Hall, MD

 

. . .  The boat fits the trailer well with no modifications. However, next year I plan to put a roller on the front part of the keel track to keep the bow off this area on a steep ramp. I also intend to have a couple of pieces of angle iron welded in the keel track to centre the boat. I had to use a jack and a piece of 2x4 to move the keel over to the centre of the keel track this year. Having a trailer tongue that extends is certainly very helpful in retrieving the boat.

 

I met another fellow with the same trailer as mine, made by Selox. He also has had no trouble. His was modified by Selox in Toronto, including rollers on the front and a dual axle. (He had found the trailer tended to sway on the highway with a single axle.) He said the modifications were carried out by Selox and that they had been most helpful.

 

 

THE CLASS ASSOCIATION exists to improve on the tangible benefit of owning a Tanzer 22. (A tough proposition, to be sure.) We are directed by the Objects of the Association to do this by supporting regional fleets and by controlling changes to the boat. If we are looked on as a resource by the fleets, then I think we have achieved one of these goals. The second object may be more difficult.

 

For changes to the boat, I think we are eager to accept any feature that makes the T22 easier to manage, simpler to operate, safer to use and cheaper to own. The quest for speed that comes other than from the skill of the Skipper is outside what I believe the Class Associa­tion should support.

 

We get into the speed question because some handicapping systems don't measure some go-fasts. To help your T22 win in a mixed fleet (and I am all for that) you may want to use extra ballast, an adjustable back­stay, plastic sails, or a bendy mast. That is your choice. In a mixed fleet. I believe it is our job in the Association to tell you when your boat ceases to be a Tanzer 22. In a way, we are a handicapping system that wants to measure everything.

 

 

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