No. 28 - September 1977

 

THE ROSENTHAL KNOT and some related bits and pieces

 

While sailing in Maine this summer we were shown a "new" knot by a self-confessed "knot-nut". Can't remember where he found it, but he said it's the best ever. Since then it has been subjected to rigorous testing by a Salty Old Sceptic . . . or perhaps Sceptical Old Salt is more apt. He says it's the best ever. We have looked in Cyrus Day's knot book and in Ashley, but can't find it - under any name. Notice the two ends emerge on opposite sides. It's hard to imagine that there is anything truly new under the sun . . .  please let us know if you can find this knot any place. In the meantime S.O.S. has drawn it for you, so that you, too, can use this best ever (as we said) knot.

 

Actually, it is a bend. In that a bend joins the ends of two ropes together. It is preferable to a sheet bend. While on bends, please note that a square (reef) knot should only be used in ropes of the same size, and should never be used as a bend. If you use it in ropes of different sizes or stiffness, it will come apart.

 

A hitch, as opposed to a bend, makes a rope fast to something - a bollard, your life lines, etc.

 

In order to qualify for super-snob in your yacht club bar, you can slip your glasses down your nose, draw on your pipe, and note (with an air of wisdom, please) that it is odd that the only time sailors TIE anything (other than "tying one on") is when they TIE UP at a dock. Otherwise, they PUT IN a splice . . . BEND two lines together . . . TAKE or MAKE a hitch . . . PUT IN or MAKE a knot.

 

Before you get out some practice stuff to try the Rosenthal Knot, (next page), have a look at the difference in the two illustrations below.

 

 

NOOSE a sliding knot draws up and constricts when you pull on standing part



SLIP KNOT, or STOPPER KNOT. Not to be confused with "slipped" knots. It can be slipped instantly by pulling on the end, bringing through the loop.


 

 

LOTS OF INFORMATION

Jacques D'Avignon

 

I purchased, this year, a kerosene Optimus stove and much prefer it to alcohol. I agree it can get hot if you are cooking a large meal, but what a difference in heat! WOW! We found no smell if you use good kerosene ($3.89 at Pascal Hardware for a gallon). When I was using alcohol I also got it at Pascal's for $3.29 a gallon and never had any problems. (Ed. note: we find this the best alcohol, it doesn't make your eyes "burn" and - on the Origo stove most of us use ­doesn't blacken our pots as much as other kinds . . .  including the expensive stuff.)

 

With kerosene there is the danger of a flare up, but we use an asbestos pad over the burner until the burner is well lit. This pad can also be used to lower the heat when simmering. Because the heat under the stove is probably harmful to the gelcoat on the counter, I recommend a sheet of asbestos. I'll tell you later how I solved this on ICELAND.

 

VENTILATION: Over the years I found that the ventilation as built in the Tanzer 22 was not adequate. Too much moisture was remaining trapped inside. I have installed 3 Vent O Mate - one over the fore­peak, one over the table and finally, one over the galley. Also, small vent ports were installed in each seat locker inside the cabin. All moisture problems have now disappeared. (Ed. note: Plastic covered Vent O Mates split when trod upon by slightly heavy friends. Holes for the deck are not in the same place when you replace the menace with a stainless steel top. The inside bit of this thing - that opens and closes the vent - is badly designed and poorly made. If someone can find a well made, effective low-profile vent at less-than­ scandalous prices, please let us know!)

 

DEPTH SOUNDER: I fully agree with the suggestion in the Newsletter that the transducer can be mounted in the hull without making a hole through the hull. I have a Seafarer Mark III. The transducer is installed in a water box fixed to the hull just ahead of the partition between the sail lockers and the cabin. I had to cut the floor to reach the hull, but that was easy, and underneath you find a very flat hull surface.

 

DO NOT FILL THE WATER BOX WITH CASTOR OIL. No matter how well you glue the box to the hull, using epoxy, fibreglass or whatever, the oil will leak and create a mess and a stink in the bilge. It took me two years to completely mop up about 6 ounces of the stuff and get rid of the smell. I find water no less sensitive. On Lake Champlain I was always able to get a reading down to the maximum of the instrument - 60 fathoms. One other by-product of this instal­lation is the fact that while under way, no matter how slowly I am moving, the turbulence by the bottom of the keel shows up on the dial and it is possible then to see how many feet (inches?) of water there are between the bottom of the keel and the bottom. In the fall, I remove the transducer from the water box, stick a towel in the tube and remove the water.

 

SUMLOG: I have installed the dial in the backrest of the small seat forward of the table on the port side. The sensor is located under the seat and the cable is only about 2 to 3 feet with no sharp bends. If weeds get caught in the impeller it is possible to remove when at dockside simply by reaching under the hull with your hand. Or, you can go for a swim and remove any foreign matter. The readings are accurate within ±5%. When you are sailing, if for any reason your keel stalls, the reading drops to zero immediately due to the disturbed flow around the keel.

 

 

EN TANZER 22, C'EST EN FRANCAIS QUE CA SE PASSE

Pierre Biron, no. 201

 

ONE PROMENADE DE FIN DE SEMAINE: Hissons (haul up) les voiles. La grand-voile est envergu~e (bend on) par sa ralingue (bolt rope) puis etarquee (haul taut). L'etrave (stem post) fend l'eau joyeusement et la journee se passe a virer (come about), lofer (come up) et abattre (bear off) selon le gre du vent. Le Tanzer 22 n'est ni trop mou (lee helm) ni trop ardent (weather helm), quelle que soit l'allure (point of sailing). Quand la brise adonne (veer aft), vous filez (payout) le garant (hauling part) de la grande ecoute et l'inclonometre (heel indicator) montre une moindre gite. La route parcourue (made good) est celle que vous aviez prevu.

 

Un vent arriere vous permet de sortir le tangon (whisker pole) pour tangonner (pole out) le foc. Puis vers 5 heures vous decidez d'ancrer en prenant'soin d'oringuer (set a trip line) afin de ne pas perdre une ancre qui s'engagerait sous un tronc d'arbre. Vous culez (have stern­way) un moment pour verifier la tenue, apres quoi vous serez confiant de ne pas retrouver l'ancre surpattee (fouled by the flukes) ou sur­jattee (fouled by the stock) le lendemain.

 

Durant la nuit evitez (swing at anchor), le vent tourne et malheureuse­ment la coque s'approche d'une roche decouvrante (subject to drying) puis tout a coup vous talonnez (touch the bottom). La flottaison (water line) est intacte mais le bateau est echoue. Comme vous etes au lac des Deux Montagnes, ou il n'y a pas de marnage (tidal range) et encore moins de maregraphe (tide gauge), ce n'est pas dramatique. De plus il n'y a pas de remous (tide rip) du au courant demaree et, comme il ne vente pas ce soir la, il n'y a pas de moutons (white caps).

 

En pyjama sur le pont vous vous dehalez sur le cablot d'ancre et d'apres un gisement (relative bearing) approximatif pris sur le phare (light house) de Ste-Placide, vous etes d~gage. En vous recouchant vous decidez que la prochaine fin de semaine vous demanderez a la capitainerie (harbour master's office) du club d'Oka passer la nuit, bien amarre a un organeau (metal ring).

 

Si ma petite histoire est bien fictive (voir aussi Newsletter 27), vous avez quand meme lu 70 termes marins, composes d'un seul mot francais, et qui se traduisent par 158 mots anglais. Qui dit mieux?

 

 

EN TANZER 22, C'EST EN FRANCAIS QUE CA SE PASSE

 

Si je n'ai pas mentionne la crapaudine (rudder post socket), le surbau (roof coaming), la jaumiere (rudder post hole}, la timonerie (pilot house, steering gear}, les moustaches (whisker stays), la braie (mast boot), le Bib (life raft), le viseur (sighting vane), la varangue (floor timber}, le vaigrage (inner planking), c'est tout simplement parce que le Tanzer 22 peut naviguer sans cela.

 

   

FRENCH IS SHORTER (OR IS IT?)

Pierre Biron

 

FOUR WORDS TO ONE: When the anchor rodes get wrapped around the flukes of the anchor, the latter is said to be fouled by the flukes and you need four words to say it. But in French you could get away with only one word by saying that the anchor is surpattee. In a similar vein, the anchor is surjattee when it is fouled by the stock. You probably have guessed by now that the anchor stock is jas and the fluke is a patte.

 

Suppose that you want to avoid losing your anchor should it get stuck beneath a rock or a stubborn root. You will set a trip line, one end made fast to the crown of the anchor, the other to a small buoy or an empty plastic bottle. All you have to do, in French, is oringuer, which means to set up an orin, trip line.

 

 

AROUND LONG ISLAND REGATTA, T22 BOHEMIA 5th in NAYRU Division after gruelling 50 hours, with Skipper Rudi Harbauer and crew: Wolf Harbauer and Richard Strauss. 185 Nautical Miles. Bohemia was the second smallest in a fleet of 89 yachts. (Largest was a 62' Tri "Spirit of America".)

 

At the time of the start at Rockaway Point at the edge of New York Harbour, the wind was blowing up to 15-20 knots NE and Small Craft Warnings were displayed. It was a straight run of 17 hours to Montauk Point, which we rounded at 1300, Saturday. After that, problems started -- choppy waters, fluky winds, rip tides, shallow water, rocks.

 

There was no chance for us to get close to Plum Gut by 1600, which was the last favourable opening to pass into Long Island Sound with the current running west. Without that possibility, the alternative was to head for the Race with least strong current.

 

We were lucky to pass this point a half hour before tide change, and then we looked for wind and least adverse current, which we found on the Connecticut shore. By midnight Saturday, a west wind with gusts to 40 started, and continued through the night.

Taking advantage of the favourable current in the center of the Sound going west again at 2200, we sailed all night and reached the eastern part of the north shore of Long Island by 0800, at which time the wind died.

 

It was a beautiful Sunday, with temperatures in the 80s and visibility of 15 miles. We got some sleep and rest, took baths in the cockpit, and waited for the SW wind, which was predicted to come with a strength of 15 - 25 knots.

 

The wind arrived at 1400 and we were able to sail close-hauled straight to the finish line - 30 miles in 5 hours. Extremely strong winds and short chop made it necessary to put in the second reef and use the working jib. The water was up to the windows all this time, and we dug the greens several times and flooded the cockpit. We finally crossed the line at 1840. We were fifth in the NAYRU Division of 24 starting boats.

 

This race was a tough one due to the unpredictability of L.I. Sound and the tricky waters around Montauk and Orient Point. Of the 89 boats that started, 26 had to withdraw.

 

My opinion of racing on the south shore of Long Island and in the Sound is as follows: Sailors on the south shore have to be hardy, due to shallow waters and strong winds. Sailors on the Sound have to be more versatile, carry more sails, be better in light breezes and more technical.

 

We were proud and lucky to finish this race. There was not one anxious minute aboard. Our crew of three people was a perfect combination. Our confidence in the T22 was strong at all times. Everything worked perfectly; even in the 40 mph gusts the boat proved seaworthy. We carried the following sails and equipment: storm jib, working jib, Genoa 1 & 2, 2 anchors, sea anchor, inflatable dinghy, safety equip­ment.

 

 

CAULKING AND TEAK CLEANERS

Discovered this summer - that BOAT LIFE caulking and sealant are much better than other kinds . . .  Formula Five (pricey as caviar) is the best fibreglass polish. It's a finer polish than the Trewax polish and therefore kinder to the gelcoat . . .  For yellowish stains picked up in some waters - Oxalic acid. This appears in YP1O - a gel that is easy to use and overpriced. A pharmacist will give you some straight, with dilution instructions.

THE ULTIMATE IN TEAK CLEANERS: TE-KA. It's a 2-part job, and certainly preferable with 2 people - ­one on a hose. It lifts so much dirt out of the teak with such enthusiasm and speed that it must be terrible for the gel-coat. Rinse copiously, carefully, continuously. After you do your teak, you'll have to polish and wax your gel coat as you'll have streaks, even with all the rinsing. Teak looks 100% brand new. This is a major surgery cleaner and I can't believe that anything so strong is good to use more than once a year. We followed up with Gary's Teak Treat - a sealer available in the U.S. I've never seen it in Canada. It is excellent. Wests is bankrupt, so we can't get that sealer any more. TE-KA took so much out of the wood that it needed four heavy coats of sealer. Elastol is also a good sealer. The boats using it still look OK at the end of the season. MARINE-TEX is great for filling up holes and patching when you move deck fittings around or otherwise need to patch a small hole.

 

 

COCKPIT CANOPY

 

St. Lawrence Kit Craft Co. (61 Oakland Ave., Montreal, Que.) make a super cockpit canopy. Has sides that can be rolled down, and a back part that can be zippered on, to close up the whole cockpit. $125.00. Without the back, and sides rolled up, it is a sun awning. Or if it rains, you can have a cockpit tent.

 

 

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