No. 22 - May 1976


445 South Main Street, Freeport, N.Y. 11520


1) KEEL AND RUDDER SWITCH: (Jeff, as old readers will remember, brought his centreboard, and Pete Evans' up to trade for a Keel. They did the conversions themselves.) The conversion was an unequalled success. The boat is entirely different and far superior now. The TQT rudder was the answer for steering problems. She tacks like an FJ now, and on a close (850-800) spinnaker reach we'll get knocked on beam ends now before she rounds up. Control in following seas is much improved.


2) RUB RAIL: Comet or Ajax do a good cleaning job; but the rubrails can also be sanded smooth and coated with Nicor-Coat from Nicro-Fico.

3) RIVETS: I don't recommend Ken Jones' suggestion of driving the body from the pop rivets in the hull-deck join as this body provides most of the tensile strength and virtually all the shear strength of these rivets.


4) SPINNAKER POLE STOWAGE: Starboard side with one end on the deck a few inches aft the bow pulpit, and the other end on a pole end fitting attached to the top end of the stanchion 2nd aft the bow pulpit.


5) BUMPER HOLDERS: Clam cleats installed under hand rail, 2 each side and 1" yacht braid on bumpers. Haven't lost one yet and they are easy and fast to put on.


6) I removed the regular cleats on the cockpit coaming and replaced with clam cleats for the Genoa sheets. I also mounted mini clam cleats aft of the Genoa winches into which I pop the line that goes around the tiller to hold it quiet when at moorings or anchor.


7) A floor traveller is better than no traveller and doesn't cut seats in half. A recent article reports that boats under 26' need no more than 8" of travel either way off center. They claim any more is of little help. I have about 9 1/2" of movement.


INSTALLING YOUR OWN GENOA TRACK? Here's how Tanzer Industries cut the bolts to the proper size.

1)Install bolt with washer and ordinary nut and tighten.

2) Grab exposed end of bolt with vice-grips and wiggle back and forth until it breaks.

3) Undo nut - this cleans the threads up.

4) Put on cap nut.


TEAK TIP from Bob and Elaine Shimer, no. 807. They recommend Danish Oil. You brush it on, let it soak in for half an hour, then wipe dry after first sanding off the fuzz with fine sand paper. From, Danish Oil Finish, WATCO DENNIS Corp., Santa Monica, Calif.



Rte 3, Box 232, Eau Claire, Wise 54701


H&L Marine teak pinrail edges both shelf edges in cabin. Kirsch Marine­track - expensive but nice - for curtain track, top and bottom. Instead of the standard hiking stick, which I found uncomfortable: Forespar adjustable with the aft end held in a spring clip. I may have got a lemon, because the adjustable feature wore out in one season; but I like it enough to buy another! Slides attached to main sail with nylon shackles - snapped one afternoon in a good breeze. Next year they'll

be sewn on.


I found that the CB model has great natural yaw resistance, but I haven't been too successful at getting her to self steer with only lashed tiller. The lashings are too hard to adjust finely. But my adjustable hiking stick works perfectly. A tiller lock, I should say. It is infinitely more adjustable and holds its setting. I installed spring clips on coaming, port and starboard, just aft of the cleat, and snap stick into clip to hold. A few rounds of tape on the end of the stick prevent it sliding outboard. . . after all my fooling around with sheet to tiller arrange­ments, I found this method nearly 100% reliable to windward, with or without the jib! Strong winds, or light! And not sensitive to weight shifts! I often sail alone sitting in the bow pulpit. With this system, when sailing with main and jib (working jib), trim the jib slightly closer than the main. When the main starts to luff slightly, the greater pressure on the jib forces the boat off until the main fills. If she falls off too far, heeling creates more weather helm, which causes her to head up. Actually, the course is fairly straight.


Seen in Yachting Monthly, May, 1975




YOU NEED: One l2V DC operated double pole relay, mounted on a 10 terminal tag board, one push button switch, type l4DMG, one RS S4 rocker master switch and one 3 pair terminal connector block, a l2V car horn and 2 6V dry batteries connected in series.


The system depends on the burglar stepping onto or lifting a hinged board. When he does, the foot switch closes and the horn sounds - and continues to do so until the master switch is turned off.


Seems the switch could be set up so you'd put it in place on your com­panionway step when you leave the boat.


MORE WAYS TO USE SHOCK CORD: Stretch it zig zag across the foredeck headliner and stick your charts up in there. You could also stretch nets across that piece of deck head in which to stow clothing. . .  magazines. . . whatever. A piece of shock cord tied tightly around the mast will hold one end of a S hook - the other end of which will hold up the forward hatch at night. You can stick a reefing handle in it temporarily, too. (A better winch handle pocket can be made of a length of correct ID tubing - e.g. car radiator hose, screwed or lashed to the mast. On the inside of the aft bulkhead in your cabin, you can screw eyes between which to stretch shock cord to hold an in-use chart. And, of course, no Tanzer 22 sailor would be guilty of halyards slapping against the mast - tie 'em off with shock cord.



From Yachting Monthly, February, 1976



Chart table to pull out over ¼ berth. Made from plywood that slides out on nylon track which is screwed to liner. You could have a fold down "bulkhead", or legs to support between chart table and galley counter.


A NEW KNOT (THE TARBUCK KNOT) (used by climbers)



The end is tucked between the lay after tying - about 1/3 of the way down the loop. In recent tests made in England, this knot failed at 79% of the rope's ultimate breaking load. Bowlines failed at 50 - 60% of the ultimate breaking load, depending on how tied. Splices made with uneven tension on the tucks failed at 81% of the rope's ultimate breaking load.


TO SCOOP UP WATER with a plastic bucket on the end of a line you need to get one side of the bucket to sink. You know - the old swing-splash­-scoop method. Punch holes in the plastic around the rim. With an awl. Thread nylon fishing line in and out under the rim and tie ends together, with lead fishing weights on one side only.


TO WORK, MOLD, SMOOTH, SHAPE polysulfide caulking, apply and let stand until it begins to skin over - usually about 1 - 2 hours. You can then work at it with your fingers covered with a heavy, slippery film of liquid detergent. The surface skin will not break, but the sealer remains malleable underneath.


IF YOU FIND YOURSELF tied to the windward side of a rough wall - and, naturally want to keep yourself off, you will probably do as the good books tell you and put out an anchor to kedge off. Try passing the rope under the boat from the wall side; the angle of pull will be more horizontal and it will be kept well underwater and clear of passing props.


SOMETIMES you'll be tied up against a wall too high to climb comfortably for wives and kids. Here's a rope ladder you can make quickly - the top end of which you put over a bollard. You need about a fathom (6') per step.





SPINNAKER     SHEETS    5/16 x 40' ea.

              HALYARD   5/16 x 68'   

             DOWNHAUL 5/16 x 25'   

             UP HAUL   5/16 x 35'   


GENOA SHEETS  7/16 x 66'

JIB SHEETS    7/16 x 50'

MAIN SHEET    7/16 x 60'

HALYARDS      5/16 X 28'