MORE ON TRAILERS
Jean T. Vachon
P.O. Box 437 Orleans, Ontario
This trailer was built for me by professional
farm machinery builders, the design being a joint effort. The boat sits
(waterline) 65" above ground. The frame of the trailer is reinforced where
the keel rests to provide additional support; and the boat's c.g. when in place
is located right over the axels. Six ply tires are used, inflated at 75 Ibs.
Axle and wheel sizes are as shown on the diagram. I have had 4 tie-down rings
welded onto the frame for securing purposes. The cradle itself is attached by
means of six one-foot lengths of chain to the frame bolts and large washers.
Needless to say, the whole assembly has not moved. A long trussed tongue
completes the arrangement.
Speed in towing has been limited to 40 MPH, as I
noticed that over that speed, oscillations could be set up, probably as a
result of three factors; length and loading of tongue, spring rates and
suspension design. Total cost of the trailer was under $500.
By the way, I also have the old style cradle,
which makes launching difficult. To remedy the problems involved in floating
the stern off,
I substituted bolts with large wing nuts for
those permanently fixing the back support just before launching. It then becomes a
rather straight forward operation to remove the support once in the water.
4 wheels - 570/500 - 8" 6 ply 960 lbs
capacity 751b
Axles: 2" straight type
Peripheral frame: 4" x 2"
X members 3" x 3"
All welding electrical
+ License holder & lights
Bed length 146"
Bed width: 60" ..,
Tongue length: 87"
WARNING FROM NOTICES TO MARINERS
TOXIC SUBSTANCES IN ELECTRONIC DEVICES – CAUTION
The dust of Beryllium Oxide (Beryllia) material
is toxic and is used in certain electronic components that may be found In
electronic equipment on board: power transistors (especially VHF type), power
diodes, thyristors, ceramic material where identified by blue coloration or
black lines heat sink washers.
Beryllia IS highly dangerous in a dust form when
it might be inhaled or enter a cut or skin irritation. Entering through the
skin it can cause chronic ulcerations; inhaled, a single exposure lasting
seconds can endanger life or cause permanent injury. Symptoms of poisoning
indicated by respiratory troubles or cyanosis may develop within a week - or
after a latent period extending to several years.
ANCHORS & ANCHORING
No one really wants to drag anchor across a
harbor, risking damage toequipment - or even loss of life. But in the snug security
of ignorance a lot of anchoring practices are seen that you would not want to
be to leeward of on a bad night. For a very complete discussion of this topic
you are referred to Chapman's "piloting, Seamanship & Small Boat
Handling”.
The anchor(s) you choose are determined by local
conditions and practice, and stowage space. Most likely, you have an 8 lb.
Danforth, which fits so neatly into the anchor well. This is your working
anchor. If you are cruising, you should also have a storm anchor. You might
choose either the 131 lb. or the 22 lb. Danforth. For your working anchor, your
rode should be at least 150’ of 3/8” nylon. At one end you will work an eye splice around
a thimble; and through this, shackle on some chain - at least 3’of 3/16” -
which you shackle to the anchor. You will want a longer rode for the storm anchor
- at least 200', and heavier chain: a minimum of 4’of ¼”.You might also want to
use ½” nylon for the rode.
Danforths are good for sand and mud bottoms. The
plow anchor (CaR)is effective on a wider variety of bottoms; and because of the
pivoting feature of the shank, it tends to stay buried when the wind or current
changes the angle of pull. However, it is a nasty item to store, especially on
small boats.
The Northill is good for sand and mud, and has
also proven itself in heavy kelp and in some rocky areas. A 12 lb Northill with
150' of 3/8” nylon and 3' of 3/16” chain will suffice for your working anchor.
For a storm anchor, you would move up to a 27 lb with the same rode you'd use
for a Danforth storm anchor.
The reason for using nylon for your anchor rode
is that it is the strongest and most elastic. Under load, it can stretch 1/3 or
more. This elasticity is valuable for absorbing shock loads on the ground tackle
when the boat surges in heavy seas. And do we ever surge around! Of course, you
CAN attach this directly to the anchor; but it is preferable to have the chain
in between for 2 reasons. 1) The lightest anchors tend to bury themselves
completely, and the chain will stand chafe better than the nylon. 2) The weight of the
chain helps to lower the angle of pull so that the anchor digs into the bottom
better. By the way, polypropylene should not desecrate your ground tackle
system. It has everything wrong with it, and it's only advantage around a boat
is that it makes a good dinghy painter because it floats and is, therefore,
less likely to become fouled with your propeller.
Speaking of angle of pull . . . you can have an
instructive exorcise - for the kids, of course - if you take your anchor and
rode out in the yard and drag it around, both with a large angle of pull, and a
small, observing how your anchor would behave in an anchorage.
Scope is the ratio of rode length (from the bow
chocks) to the depth of the water, plus an allowance for height of the bow above
the water. Under really good conditions, a scope of 5:1 can be considered a
satisfactory minimum. But under average conditions, the scope should be 7 or
8.1. In very heavy weather: 10:1 - providing you won't swing into other boats.
Anchors need a low angle of pull to dig in; and if you have a short scope, the
anchor will tend to pullout, the elasticity of the rode being reduced. It is a
help if your rode is marked every 20' feet, so that you know how much you've
paid out.
Use your chart and your head (the one on your
shoulders, that is) in choosing an overnight anchorage. Most obvious is
protection from expected weather. Then you want a good bottom, with no
submarine cables lying around. Mud and clay are good bottoms, or sandy mud.
Soft, loose sand and soft muds are bad. Rocks are usually bad, as are heavy
weeds. Also, bottoms thick with grass often prevent a fluke from taking hold.
If you're on the coast, you must take tidal range into consideration. Then you
have to bear in mind possible 360 degree swings of the other anchored boats.
They got there first and it is their right to be treated with respect. It is up
to you to anchor in such a way that you won't disturb them. It is also your
obligation not to spill their drinks with your wake. They will also, by the
way, hear every word you say - and either admire or condemn your level of
seamanship and consideration.
Once you've found the ideal spot, you approach
it SLOWLY, and head up against the wind or current - whichever is strongest -
until the boat has no way on. Then you LOWER the anchor. You don't hurl it,
heave it or throw it, as the rode might foul on a fluke. Now your boat is
slowly gathering sternway; and if it isn't, you help it along with the motor in
reverse. You are, of course, not standing in the coiled rode on the deck; and
the bitter end (inboard end) is fastened to the boat. SLOWLY reversing, the
rode is paid out - not tossed out in a snarled heap. When you've paid out a
scope of about 8:1 you snub the line to the cleat, and the anchor should bite
in. You can shorten it later, should conditions indicate that it is desirable
to do so. If you snub too soon, the anchor might drag. When you think it has
bitten, give it a reverse load somewhat in excess of what you think the anchor will
have to contend with. Then, before starting the happy hour, line up two
somethings on shore trees, perhaps, and observe their apparent distance from
each other, which will change if you're dragging. Or, you know you're holding
if you can pull the boat up to the anchor, rather than vice-versa. Sometimes
paying
out more scope with an occasional yank will encourage the anchor to bite. There
is, by the way, no disgrace in starting all over again in a new spot should
your anchor refuse to cooperate.
Rafting overnight is usually an unwise practice.
If 4 or more boats raft, the outboard boats should carry anchors out at a 45 degree
angle. Don't forget periodic inspection of shackles and their pins, and your
anchor rode. Sand and grit in the strands of the line deteriorate itand rust
stains are a great destroyer of nylon.
May your sleep not be disturbed with worries
about dragging!
THE LIGHTNING CONTROVERSY
As
a result of John's article on lightning protection,
we heard from Clint Chamberlain of the Buoy 22 Marina, Hayes, Virginia. Right
here and now, let me say that the Newsletter is very glad to hear from the T22 dealers. Specially as WG don't hear from any
of the rest of you after the snow has melted. One previous correspondent told
this intrepid Ed. that the facts in this letter should be checked more
carefully. So I now obediently wake up at 3 AM with scepticism.
Clint writes that one should, "install the
equivalent of the old fashioned lightning rod which is designed to discharge an
electrical cloud before
the potential builds to the point that a 'strike' occurs." He suggests a
wind vane; and also feels that a length of old halyard wire hanging into the water
from a shroud is adequate. The reason, he claims, for the point at the top of
the mast is that a point permits a much higher electrostatic potential and will
therefore do a much better job of discharging a charged cloud. Further, that
grounding the mast to the keel bolts is no good because of the resistance of
the paints and resins to this small discharge current.
I can't swallow that. Voltages in a bolt of
lightning can run to 15,000,000 volts; and a lightning bolt can travel 20 - 100
miles cloud to cloud, or 8 miles cloud to earth. How can you trickle a charge
out of a cloud? And that cloud would be miles away before fully charged,
anyway. The cloud you are going to worry about builds up its charge before it is
near enough to know your mast exists! And in the face of these enormous
voltages, what is the point of a point at the top of a metal mast?
The encyclopaedia Britannica says:
"Contrary to popular belief, lightning rods do not act to prevent
lightning strokes; but, rather, exert a local influence to direct strokes
safely to earth."
The meteorologists at the Dorval Weather Bureau
when I continued with my homework, told me lot of stuff about charges on
plastic hulls as a result of friction through the water. And, when I'd confused
them with my questions, passed me on to the next guy. Finally, I ended up with
Mr. Norman Powe, who was most kind, patient and helpful. He made a whole series
of calls for me and tracked down Mr. B.K. Scarlett. I called Mr. Scarlett in
Toronto. He is a Professional Engineer, a sailor, too, by great good luck; and
a member of Port Credit Yacht Club. He said that you do not need to have a
point on your mast, that you do not need to worry about the insulating
qualities of the paint and resin on the keel, that the keel should be grounded
to the mast by the shortest, straightest route. He uses no.6 wire. If you hang
chains over the side to ground your mast, they do not have a large enough
underwater surface unless connected to a copper plate of some sort. He also
pointed out the advantage of a well grounded mast should you hit a power line.
An ungrounded mast can pick up a stray charge - which you can bodily discharge
by placing yourself between the mast or shrouds and ground: out it is unlikely
that voltages would be near a dangerous level.
Just a bit more, so that you can draw your own
conclusions: The amount of current that flows in a conductor (i.e., your mast)
is a function of the voltage and the resistance. Current (1) = voltage (E)
divided by the resistance (R) in Ohms. 1 Ohm of R will limit the current to 1
amp with an applied E of 1 volt. The thicker the wire the less its resistance.
Air is a good insulator (high resistance) and enormous voltages are required to
break down miles of it. Your mast is a good conductor (low resistance). If I= E/R,
and E = millions of volts, your mast can have a high current flowing through it.
To say the least. The currant capacity of no.6 wire is 50 amps; or no.8 wire is
35 amps. The resistance of no.6 wire is .3951 Ohms per 1,000'; of no.8 wire it
is .6282 Ohms per 1,000'. No.6 is 2531 feet per Ohm (resistance increases with
length) and no.8 is 1592 feet per Ohm. It wouldn't seem that either wire Will
survive a direct lightning strike; but you can hope it will direct it to ground
(the water) through the keel rather than through something less desirable
(you?).
In experiments with electricity, pointed ends
are used because, for some reason, electrons fly off a pointed end more readily
than off a blunt end (e.g. of a rod). But these arc experiments are unrelated
to the action of the top of your mast when a thunderstorm comes along.
Now, I really hope that we aren't going to get
into a discussion of auantum Theory, neutrinos, nuclear physics. And I hope
you'll keep writing with your disagreements - you keep my brain awake.
IDEAS FROM DON CRANDALL
To attach chock cord, or plastic cord for using
as curtain rods: strap eyes screwed into the headliner at either end. . . Fridge-o-Seal
containers, bread loaf size, fit on shelves beside quarter berths - aft and out
of sight; and one on top of the other.
IDEAS FROM BRIAN BEST
Plexiglas companionway “board”, which will be
used with the other half screened, so that the cabin has more light when you're
cabin-bound by rain on a cruise. . . For those who can't get end hooks for the
curtain rods that have snap-sliders: A little brass scew through the slider
(the plastic above the snap) which you then screw in place just into the track,
to hold the outer end of the curtain in place.
TEAK CLEANER
Bill
Bragger - Spic and Span and hot water.
Don
Crandall - Bon Ami. Sail Magazine says not to use any kind
of linseed oil on teak as it oxidizes in the sun and turns dark. Once oxidized,
it is almost impossible to remove.
NEW FROM TANZER INDUSTRIES
Main Hatch - COMPANIONWAY FOLDING TOP (rain and
spray hood). . . Not a dodger and not just a pop-top. It folds down forward when
not in use, but can remain up when you are under sail. Built on an aluminum
frame, the sides are transparent, with a screen that snaps down into the
companionway entrance. This is an effective addition for utilizing comfort,
which will reduce the apparent shrinkage of the cabin in rainy weather. Further
details can be had from Tanzer Industries; It can be seen on Hans Tanzer’s boat (no. 500)
at IPYC. Price is approximately $130.
MAST LOWERING GIZMO - ONE MAN UNDERWAY STYLE OPERATION.
This one can be seen on No.
500. An A-frame type of arrangement, requiring some new deck fittings, which
eliminates the danger of sideways sway when lowering or raising the mast. This
will be a help to the fellow who can’t rely on the supply of gorillas for getting
under low bridges. It makes the whole operation very simple and safe – at a
price (maybe these things shouldn’t be printed where wives might see them). Ah
well, it
costs approx. $125.
GUESTS WE HAVE LOVED
Wore jogging shoes - first, for gardening
Brought along potato chips for lunch
Sat on the jib sheet. Always.
Didn't ask first how to use
the head
Threw a beer can overboard
Told us all about his friend's big power cruiser
Dropped a hot ash on a sail bag
Used greasy suntan oil
Brought a sun reflector
Had a sun allergy
Told me how the sun ravages, wrinkles your skin
Pointed to an ugly tub and asked, "Is that
another T22?”
Said, "Oh! You can't stand up in here!”
Asked, incredulous, "I have to jump
from here to there?"
And, “But how do you take a bath?"· (We didn't
tell)
And, “How do you KNOW it won't tip over?".
And said, “Gosh, it must be nice to have, a
yacht." (A YACHT?)
Had just come from the hairdresser, and wouldn’t
leave the cabin.
But then there were others, who we’ll invite
again.
A TANZER 22 1/3
That’s right - a 1/4 ton Tanzer 22! Almost a
"do it yourself" modification that can be done, and still stay within
our class rules. While all the exact measurements are not complete yet, by the
time you read this they will be.If you can't wait until next Newsletter - drop
a line to the Class Association and we'll give them to you.
Briefly - this is what has to
be done. ~".
1) The mainsail will have to be flown slightly
higher & IOR black bands put on top & bottom of mast. This means moving
the goose neck slide up slightly, and is not contrary to rule 2.7.
2) The height that the spinnaker pole can be
flown must be restricted. A bolt through the slide will do this. (does
not conflict with rule 2.93). Also the spinnaker pole has to be shortened a
couple of inches.
3) Maximum
spinnaker girth to be 15.4 feet. (we allow 16 feet)
4)
The "I" measurement has to be shortened slightly - The factory has a
simple means of doing this without adversely affecting the normal standing
rigging - or sail setting.
5) The “LPG" of the #1 Genoa may have to be
shortened slightly.
The Tanzer 22, in its standard form comes so close
to the magic 18 of IOR MkllI, that with these minor alterations - becomes
feasable for anyone really serious about 1/4 ton racing. But before you get
your hacksaw
& sewing machine out - remember, you'll still have to have an IOR official
measurer do his bit, and issue a certificate. This will cost you something over
$200.00.
AUXILIARY POWER
Two new outboard engines have appeared on the market
since Newsletter #4. The “MAC" 10 Wankel - 9.5 HP - 77 lbs. - sold by
Goldberg's for $549.00. And the Honda 7.5 HP - 4 stroke outboard, weighing 70 lbs. If nothing else - it eliminates the tiresome chore
of mixing oil with gas. We expect to run some tests on this new Honda motor -
more details in the next Newsletter.
TRAILERING
Reese make, in addition to a varied line of lead
equalizing hitches, a sway control that is said to control fishtailing or sway
by forcing the trailer to track directly behind your car. Cost about $30.00,
and attached between the trailer frame and their equalizing hitch. If anyone
has installed one of these, we'd like a report back on their effectiveness.
