No. 4 - January, 1973


John Charters

Frankly, your only real choice is between an outboard engine and no power at all. And for a sailboat auxiliary, the outboard engine is not an efficient motor. Its main advantage is that it can easily be removed and taken to the dealer when it needs servicing. Just as well, as the average outboard is a pesky beast, and seems to require constant attention. It is also easier to get at the propeller to unfoul a tangle of line than it is with an inboard motor. And there is less danger of explosion than with an inboard gasoline engine.


There are a couple of points I'd like to make before discussing shaft length, HP, propellers, brands, etc.


If you are going to be sailing in any sort of wind or seaway, disconnect the hose at the tank. Otherwise, gas will leak out when the boat is heeled When the hose is connected to the tank it depresses a small valve on the tank in order to allow air to enter. Unfortunately, it also a allows gas to leak out!


Never store your motor with the lower unit higher than the top unit, as cooling water can drain into the cylinders. Also, we are advised that motors are best stored in a cold place during the winter. Seems that many dealers spray your motor with a very fine film of oil to prevent rusting. If you store your motor in a hot place this light film drains off; and you loose this protection.


If you leave your outboard on the transom bracket during the summer, theft becomes a problem. I know, it happened to me! At best, all you can do Is discourage the would be theft. Nothing is foolproof, other than removing it and locking it in one of the sail lockers. There are, however, several things you can try. First, chain your motor to the boat with the heaviest chain and the largest padlock you can find. This in itself is a problem, because I have not yet found a way to chain it to the bracket that permits raising the bracket without disconnecting the chain. You could weld a ring to the bracket and fasten your chain to that. Secondly, re-paint your motor in non-standard colors. The best job is one that makes your motor look about 20 years old. Failing that, try purple - or some other bizarre color.


Now as to the motor. What is needed, of course, is a large propeller, turning slowly, located well under the boat. This we can't have. The one outboard that seems to come closest is the British Seagull, which

has a large, slow turning propeller. However, our Owner's Manual advises that the large blade fouls the rudder. At any rate, the British Seagull is reputed to be difficult to start; and their small, self contained fuel tank must be difficult to refill underway.


We are left, then, with one of the popular American (or Canadian), under 10 HP motors. The choice is not great. OMC (Johnson and Evinrude), Mercury, and Chrysler. Plus an odd assortment of dubious value.


The final choice is a matter of personal preference, of course. But the following table may help you make that choice. Prices given are list price on last year's models, so they are probably all a little higher now. With a bit of work, you should be able to get up to a 20% discount on list.






















































525 electric








435 manual





British Seagull










(fouls rudder on T22)













Regardless of the make, however, you will need the long shaft version. Even so, the propeller will lift out of the water when heading up wind if there is any wave action. (As the 91/2 OMC rides much lower than the 6 HP model - with the prop. much lower in the water, therefore, this becomes a problem only under extreme conditions.) The same thing will happen if your crew all rush to the bow - very helpful when you're trying to dock! (I have trouble with my crew that way. All you need is a 225 lb man standing in the anchor well and you're powerless.)


OK - what horsepower? One thing I do know, a 91/2 OMC with the stock propeller will push a Tanzer 22 through the water faster than the 6 HP. Hull speed is a function of the waterline; and is 1.34 x square root of the waterline length, in knots. In our case, that works out to about 6 knots, or nearly 7 MPH. So, no matter how much power we provide, the hull will not go much faster than this through the water. All we can hope to do is get the boat up to hull speed, with enough power left over to overcome wind resistance. Present indications are that this cannot be done with the OMC 6 HP, regardless of which propeller you use.


Speaking of propellers, you should not use a bronze one. 1) It is too heavy for the light weight motor. 2) It will bend - not break - if hit, and throw your motor out of balance, creating a chance of serious motor damage.


The stock propeller supplied with the OMC is designed to propel a lightweight boat through the water at planing speeds. This, by the way, IS the only propeller made by OMC for their 6 HP motor. If you want another one, you'll have to get it from the Michigan Wheel Corp. in Grand Rapids. There seems to be no appreciable difference in speed through the water between the stock propeller (2 x 8” x 7/14) and the no. 424 Michigan (3 x 8” x 4/14). However, with the stock prop., your motor will run much slower than it was designed to. Maximum horsepower is developed around 4500rpm; and you will need the 3 blade model to reach this. We have had two 6 HP Evinrude motors tank tested with the no.424 prop. Under static conditions one motor reached 4100rpm; and the other 4400rpm. On the boat one can expect to get another 200rpm. So, though the motor may not give much more in the way of boat speed, it does allow the motor to run at its correct rpm range. It will therefore be easier on the motor. The Michigan Wheel Corp. will also change the pitch for an additional (unknown) charge.


The OMC motors have always been popular with sailboat owners because of their light weight. If, however, you can accept the relatively heavy (71 lb) Mercury 7.5 HP as your auxiliary, I suspect that it will provide all the power you need. In fact, the Merc 4 will just about hold its own with an OMC 6. The Mercury has a always had a good reputation for good gas economy - an added bonus. The 7.5 Mercury is reported to produce more power than any other motor in its class.


The only other motor that seems interesting is the Chrysler 9.9 Auto­electric. This motor is the only one under 10 HP I know of that can be equipped with a generator - plus, of course, the electric start. If you have been caught out at night with a dead battery and no running lights, then you know how useful it would be to be able to recharge your battery away from shore power. Because of its battery, which should be located near the motor, it would seem that this engine is more suited to the cruising sailor. The racing skipper may very well shudder at the excess weight! This motor is available with the longer shaft (about $30 more), and Chrysler have several different propellers available.


An 8000 lb 29 footer, powered with the Chrysler 9.9 will out perform a Tanzer with the 8 HP Chrysler. This 29’ boat was using the optional 2 blade heavy duty sailboat prop. If we take the power to weight ratio, the 3000 lb Tanzer should be more than able to hold its own with an 8000 lb boat - especially when one considers that the 29's top speed under power was only 6 knots, well below its maximum hull speed.


I am forced to conclude that if one wishes to reach maximum speed under power, something bigger than a 6 HP is needed. Part of-the problem, I'm sure, is that a motor mounted on a transom bracket is not going to give you the best results. Whether it is because the prop. is not deep enough in the water, or is operating in disturbed water, or is located too far aft, I don't know. Probably a combination of all three. So, until something better is available (wankel, maybe?), we're forced to choose between a light weight unit which is adequate under most conditions, and a heavy, more expensive motor with the reserve power that is needed upon occasion.



GALLEY HINT: To protect your gelcoat (Not arborite) counter top from burning in the event of alcohol overflow or spill from the priming pan of your stove, you can fasten your stove to an aluminum tray - which

will contain errant flames while you panic. On the bottom side of the tray may be glued some rubber strips - which will prevent the arrangement from sliding around under any conditions short of a knockdown. On the headliner over the stove, an asbestos mat fastened with velcro (not so irrevocable as glue) will give fire and excessive heat protection. Keep a pan on the burner when lighting, to control the flare up.


John Charters

Several publications are a must if you plan on doing any cruising on the east coast. For $2 get the Boating Almanac, Vol.I; Mass. Maine, New Hampshire. For $3 get the Waterway Guide, Northern edition. (Ed. note: see also other article on Maine).


The Almanac lists all the launching facilities, ramps, etc., for the area. We used the ramp at the Riverside Anchorage, Glenhaven Circle on the Saco River. They have about 9' of water at high tide - none at low. However, since the 1972 edition a new ramp has been built on the south side of the Saco River, somewhat downstream; and it’s supposed to have enough water to be used at all times. It looks first class. Riverside charges $1 for use of the ramp; but you're on your own as far as launching is concerned.


Down river is the Biddeford Pool Yacht Club. We were told that this club is snooty; but found it friendly, helpful, and a most protected anchorage. It was here that a local resident rowed out to our boat to tell us that with the exception of a Friendship sloop, ours was the prettiest boat he'd seen all summer. Maybe it was our red hull; but

I must admit that anchored amongst the other boats ours looked pretty good!


Saco Bay offers good sailing. It is protected by Ram and Eagle Islands at the southern end; and by Bluff and Stratton at the North. This is the home of Old Orchard Beach, a busy resort area known to generations of Montrealers. If you want to anchor and row ashore, don't forget the ten foot tide. To be on the safe side, anchor in something over 15'at high tide.


Avoid Prout’s Neck Yacht Club. The clubhouse is most attractive, and the members are friendly; but their moorings are unprotected. The guest mooring is halfway across the Atlantic. We spent a rough night there, enveloped in fog - we couldn't even see the Yacht Club. By the way, they charge $3.50 a night!


Eastward around Cape Elizabeth and Portland Head - into Casco Bay. Up Hussey Sound to Falmouth Foreside. Here you will find Handy Boat Service, the Maine Tanzer 22 dealer. There are good moorings, though somewhat exposed; and a launch service. One toot of you horn brings the launch out to ferry you ashore. It is a well equipped marina - you can buy ­almost anything there; and there is a good restaurant. If you prefer to anchor out, the northeast Bay of Great Diamond Island offers a sheltered anchorage.


If you have only one day to visit Casco Bay, spend that day at Jewel island - an old World War 11 Coast Artillery station. The observation   towers still stand, and your kids will love exploring. Anchor in the cove at the western tip and walk across the island to the Punch­-bowl - a natural swimming spot warmed by the sun a low tide.


I was not too impressed with Bailey Island, though Mackeral Cove is well sheltered.


Quahog Bay offers a lovely, protected anchorage. Except for the tide, it could be a Laurentian lake.


South Freeport is my favorite spot in Casco Bay. The Marina there has a mobile lift, and it was here that I had my boat lifted onto my trailer. $29l Gerry Baker at the Harraseeket Marine Service is the man to see. It is a well equipped marina, and just beside it is another marina. Between the two you should be able to get just-about anything. According to the Boating Almanac, they have a ramp there; but I don't remember seeing it.


Next summer we plan to cruise further eastward. I’ll report back to you about this time next year.


Woolsey Vinelast is recommended by Club veterans as the best for Lake St. Louis.


Wet sand with no. 240 wet/dry sandpaper, leaving only the anti-fouling paint which clings firmly to the hull. If most of the hull is bare after sanding, apply one thin coat, followed by a second regular application. Apply using brush strokes parallel with the sheer, working horizontally around the hull from boot top to keel.


The Manufacturer informs us that one quart is sufficient.

Ed.note: Anti-fouling paint on "Tarka" has been brought up over the boot top. Will let you know next fall how we feel about it. John Charters' Red Baron has black anti-fouling - brought up over the boot top; and it looks fine. (Graphspeed)



Richard L. Day, Westbrook, Connecticut


The beauty of Maine lies in its 5,000 miles of coast line, its rocky shores, its numerous islands and harbors, and its usually steady but gently winds.


The hazards are lobster buoys, fog, rocks and tides.


The lobster buoys are both a help and a danger. They are helpful in that one usually finds them fairly near shore - say within a mile. They are seldom in water shallower than 4-6 feet, and they show the direction of the tidal current. They are a menace because one's propeller can easily become wrapped with the line which connects the lobster pot on the bottom with the buoy on the surface. Where the tidal rise is considerable there may be two buoys for a single pot so that there is a connecting line between the two buoys. At high tide one of these will be deceitfully below the surface; and when the tide is low, one may be fooled into thinking that the second buoy is attached to a separate pot.


The old fashioned, full keel, conformation of a sailboat bottom is unlikely to ensnarl a lobster pot, because the propeller is nestled between the aft end of the keel and the rudder, so that the line misses the turn­ing blade. Fin keels and spade rudders don't protect the propeller.


Another kind of snarl occurs through a change in wind direction while one is at anchor. This time your anchor line may become snarled. We have been cruising the Maine coast since 1928, and there has never been a summer when we failed at least once to find a lobster pot fouled with our anchor line. We see at least one modern sailboat in every harbor which has got its propeller fouled.


Untangling is difficult. The only sensible procedure is to put on goggles and dive down to examine the situation. Water temperature is

60 degrees or less, so a skin diver's suit is advantageous. You also need a skin diver's sharp knife. Don't cut the line unless absolutely necessary, unless you want an accurately aimed bullet through your hull (or head) from a justly angry lobsterman. Lobster thieves are a distressing modern trend along the coast.


One nice thing about fog in Maine is that most shorelines are steep, so you can usually see the land (rocks) before you hit. The trick of fog navigation is accurate knowledge of where you are when the fog sets in, and of the direction you are going, the distance, and the set of tidal current. It is ESSENTIAL to have a properly adjusted compass, a deadly accurate distance log and a horn - not only for other boats to hear, but to get echoes from steep shores. The “Whistlern radar is very useful, and cheaper than ordinary radar sets.


It is never foggy when the wind blows from the NW; and It is seldom, if ever, significantly foggy when the wind is SW. There is always mist, and often fog, when there is an eastwind. It is important to listen to regular weather reports - and to accept some harbour-bound pea soup days.


Charts showing the direction of tidal currents in Maine are not really adequate. Generally, the flood goes east, and the ebb goes west. The further east you go, the greater the rise and fall - and speed - of the tides.


Blanchard's Cruising Guide is almost a necessity. The Eldridge Tide and Pilot book is entirely adequate, easy to read, and full of useful information such as radio beacons, etc. while Blanchard's sometimes suggests the current direction, you more often than not must guess its direction from lobster and navigational buoys and from the configuration of the land. In addition to these publications, compass, distance measuring log you need to have a depth sounder - or lead line. A radio direction finder is highly desirable.


A CRUISING GUIDE TO THE NEW ENGLAND COAST by Duncan and Ware. 1972 edition. Also includes coverage on Hudson River, long Island Sound, Coast of New Brunswick. $15.


SHIPSHAPE AND BRISTOL FASHION by Borland. Some great cruising ideas. $5.95.




SAILS by Jeremy Howard-Williams. Everything you wanted to know – and lots you didn’t!


HEAVY WEATHER SAILING by Coles. Exciting and fun for arm chair Admirals. $12.50.




HANDLING SMALL BOATS IN HEAVY WEATHER by Frank Robb. For the daring. $5.95.


PILOTING, SEAMANSHIP, AND SMALL BOAT HANDLING by Chapman. 1972 Edition of the classic reference. $8.95.                                                  j


ENCYCLOPEDI A OF KNOTS AND FANCY ROPE WORK by Graumont & Hensel. Most complete knot book ever - even includes coxcombing and fancy work. $15.






John Charters

If you take your boat to Lake Ontario, the first problem you encounter will be finding someone to lift your boat off the trailer, or finding a ramp with enough water, if you trail the fin keel model. It seems that most yacht clubs bring in a mobile crane once a year to launch all their bigger boats. After that you are on your own - which can be expensive when it means getting the use of one of those cranes at so much per hour!


The public ramp at Port Hope had 5' of water this summer ('72). The fin keel model needs exactly 5' on the regular trailer sold by Tanzer Industries.  Therefore, you can launch there, despite what the local experts will tell you. If you have a good long line on the trailer, and let it roll well into the lake.


Just around the corner from this ramp is the Port Hope Yacht Club - friendly very small, limited facilities. An overhead railway passes nearby; and just to the west some factory hisses. A noisy overnight berth.


Go down the lake about 6 miles to Cobourg. Here, the harbor is sheltered quiet and looked after by the Sea Cadets at the Skeena Marina (as is the ramp in Port Hope). Water and gas are available, but little else. Cobourg is a delightful town, and the natives are friendly.


From Cobourg, your next stop eastward could be the marina at Brighton; but the Trenton Yacht Club on Baker Island in the Bay of auinte seems a better choice. Going through the Murray Canal is pleasant; the swing bridges operate until 8 PM and will open for you.


From Trenton, east down the Bay of auinte is great sailing - except for the Ywick Bridge at Belleville, which opens only every half hour. There is a good marina at Deseronto.


Picton, at the head of Long Reach has a most hospitable Yacht Club close to the town. It also seems to be the favorite town watering spot and cars and people come and go all night long. It is somewhat noisy.


Eastward from Picton, down Adolphus Reach, to Kingston, where the Kingston Yacht Club lives. It is very friendly and mooring is free the first night - $1 a night after that. It's a good hike into town, but the Centennial Marina is in the center of town for those not prepared to walk. We spent three days at the Kingston Yacht Club waiting out Hurricane Agnes, and enjoyed every minute of it.


The 1000 Islands will be covered by someone else; but if you like watching ships go by, spend a night at Stovin Island, near Brockville. Moor on the south side - two locations are available. The Seaway channel is very close on the other side of this small island. You can almost reach out and touch the boats as they pass. Great fun for the kids. And parents, too!