No. 15 - February, 1975

 

DECK LAYOUT - Jeff Creamer (drawn by Roger Poitras)

 

 

 

 

Occasionally the working jib sheets foul on the clamcleats on the cabin top. I am planning to substitute geared, fairleader, cam action cleats (Schaefer no. 70-42)in their place. This would make a good system perfect.

 


 

Jeff highly recommends: The Chandlery, Ltd. 431 Woodcleft Ave. Freeport, N.Y. 11520. They carry H & L Marine Woodwork. He sent us their catalogue, which is GREAT and a bunch of order forms. Local T22ers are invited for a drink and a look at the catalogue. One nifty idea is a snack-rack, with glass holders, etc, which will mount on the bottom companionway dropboard. Looks easy to make. In teak, please.

 

 

GALLEY MODIFICATION

Jim Buydos

 

My T22 is 1971 vintage, with the sink - water tank combination, which

is useless. I took out the sink and installed a stainless sink 6" deep x 10" wide x 14" long - which is larger than on the newer T22s. I also installed a Whale galley pump.

 

Next, I installed an H & L Marine Teak drawer behind the ice box, which opens onto the quarter berth - as my model has no water tank in that location. The drawer comes pre-assembled with framework and fits perfectly behind the ice box. The drawer was ordered from H & L Marine Woodwork, Inc. 2323 W. 190th St., Redondo Beach, Cal. 90278. I ordered drawer no. 167T - 13" x 10" x 16", which I had to trim some to fit. Cost: about $28.

 

For the- water talk, I ordered a flexible vinyl tank from West products, 161 Prescott St., East Boston, Mass 02128. It has a tough pre-coated nylon outer case and a replaceable, equally strong inner liner, intake and supply hoses and coupling to hook everything up. I installed the 10 gal. size ($15) back under the quarter berth - an area difficult for stowage. I found no problem with boat trim even with the tank fu11. After one season of use, I am very pleased with it. It doesn't leak, and is easy to remove.

 

One further note: my wife and I would like helpful suggestions from those with experience cruising with an infant.

 


 

GOING to NASSAU? Gerry McGee reports that it is friendly, and the natives rather well of. You find out why when you return home broke.

If you are going Air Canada, he suggests you give the local baggage agent $5 immediately upon arrival so he will go into the baggage compartment to retrieve your bags - which are about to go on to Freeport.

 

STOW AWAYS: Bob Schunacher has cut out the port and starboard shelves and placed in the space behind, plastic containers of the Fridge-a-Seal or Tupperware variety, which are suspended by the upper lip (edge.)

 

THEFT PROOF COCKPIT LOCKERS - Seen on a Dufour (another boat). A little eye fastened under the locker top (lid?) to which you fasten 1/4" line. Then you lead it through a little hole in the bulkhead to the cabin interior, where you've mounted a little cleat. You cleat the little line in the little cleat. And no one can lift the seat hatch lid (top?) until you've uncleated the little line.

 

 

I had trouble with the halyard cleats coming loose from the mast. Below are drawings of a backing plate and an eccentric bushing (washer) which made up and installed last spring. Now I have no worries about the security of the cleats.

 


 

On the right I show how I have mounted my compass behind a fixed portlight in the aft face of the cockpit well. The deadlight is 4" in diameter but a 6” dia. deadlight is available and would be better.

 

 



 


FIBREGLASS REPAIRS - PART I

 

References: Fiberglas Boats (revised) by Hugo DuFlessis; Modern Marine Maintenance by John Duffett; Repair of Fiberglas Boats by Owens/Corning: Boat Repairs and Conversions by Michael Verney.

 

There are two types of resin: polyester and epoxy. The former is cheaper and somewhat easier to work with. Epoxy shrinks less in curing and has greater bonding strength. Polyester pot life is shorter. It is preferable where holes, fractures or splits are of fairly moderate size. Epoxy is better for high stress areas, small gouges or adhesion to metal.

 

To make above waterline emergency repairs you might wish to have a fibreglass repair kit as part of the boat's stores. It should consist

of a piece of fibreglass mat, cloth, tape, resin and catalyst. Stowed VERY CAREFULLY you should also have a promoter to speed cure, and solvent or acetone.

 

GENERAL REMARKS: Repairs should be made at 60 – 80 degrees. Surfaces should be dry and clean - no dust, no grease or oil. Mix your resin and catalyst in a shallow container (foil loaf pans are good) so that the mixture won't harden before you need it for a second coat.

 

To mix a smaller quantity than the manufacturer recommends: figure out how many drops 1/4 of the catalyst has. Do this by mixing 1/4 of a batch according to the manufacturer's instructions and counting the drops. Then if you need to mix only 1/8th of the quart of resin, you use only half the number of drops previously counted. As the first batch need is larger than subsequent batches, this will work well. You can vary the number of drops to effect curing time. Be sure to mix thoroughly. To extend pot life, keep it out of the sun, and keep your container in a flat pan of ice, if possible.

 

The curing is thermal reaction - the faster the cure, the more heat is released.

 

VERY HEAVY OVER CATALYZATION IS DANGEROUS AS FIRE OR EXPLOSION CAN RESULT. If you need a very fast cure, use a promoter. MIXING CATALYST AND PROMOTER CAUSE AN EXPLOSION. Add the promoter to the resin first, mix well and then add the catalyst.

 

Polyester resins are inflammable and burn with a dense smoke. . . ALL these plastics products must be treated with utmost respect. Peroxide catalysts explode if heated rapidly - as in a fire. Catalyst soaked rags ignite spontaneously - keep them in a bucket of water. Do not store them in contact with metal as this can cause explosion at temperatures above 65 degrees (F).

 

By the way, use separate measuring utensils for catalyst and promoter, and keep them and all containers used well separated. That means as far apart as possible.

 

Catalyst can lose its strength with age. As long as polyester is pour­able, it's usable.

 

Boat fibreglass cloth is somewhat different from many types used by· industry. Sizing is dissolved off after weaving, and it is treated to increase strength and resin absorption. Beware of bargain cloth – it is probably untreated. Use alkali-free fibreglass.

 

Glass cloth is very irritating to the skin and can cause a burning itch. Protect yourself accordingly with long sleeves and a protective cream on face and hands. Everyone says you should wear a respirator when sanding fibreglass - its deadly dust to breathe. At least, cover your nose and mouth with a surgical mask, and change it frequently.

 

 

SPAGHETTI: If you are bothered by a snarl of lines in the cockpit (especially if you lead everything aft as Jeff Creamer shows in his deck layout) there's a dandy solution - from Jeff, of course. He has canvas pockets mounted on the cabin bulkhead to receive the tails. If you would like a copy of the patterns, write and ask for them.

 

 

RUBRAIL PROBLEMS: Some of the boats built last year experienced trouble with the rubrail coming off. Tanzer Industries was faced with a short­age of the regular material and were forced to use a different kind of rubber. It wasn't until reports filtered back of the problem that they realized what was happening. Now they screw on all the rubrails as a precaution. If you have had this difficulty: use no. 10 self-tapping stainless stee1 screws – 1 1/4" long. . . 4 screws for each side. Drill from the bottom up, vertically. The flange, by the way, is 5/8” thick where the rubrail fits.

 

 

SAIL STOP: In a future issue Don Crandall will tell you about putting slugs on your main sail so that you don't have to feed the boltrope in every time you raise the sail. In the meantime, you might want to order a sail stop to prevent all the slugs sliding down and out of the mast groove. A fine one costs $3.95 from Trade Wind Instruments, 10823 12th Ave, NE, Seattle, Wash. 98125. It consists of a rod that fits in the groove, with a knurled knob that tightens up against it on a threaded section. Don says it works very well, and the price is right.

 

 

 

 

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