No. 10 - April, 1974


Philip H. Choquette, sail no. 508.


I have a Honda 7.5 outboard, long shaft with a 3 blade prop, and I have nothing but praise for this little engine. First, it is a 4 cycle and this is superior to most any 2 cycle you can buy because; 1) you burn straight 91 octane regular gasoline,2)the 4 cycle runs smoother, and idles without plug fouling becuase you use straight gasoline, 3)engine life is almost double that of a 2 cycle, and generally requires less frequent repair, 4) fuel consumption is FAR LESS than with a 2 cycle no matter what speed range you run at, 5) initial cost is less and it's cheaper to run and repair.


The Honda is rated at 7.5 HP at 5000 RPM and displaces 9.1 cubic inches, so you really have a good sized engine to work with. The engine is unbelievably quiet, and it starts easily - with less muscle than most all the 2 cycles / have used. Two pulls and you are off and running. There are a couple of features that come into play here that are worth noting: 1) there is a detent on the throttle so that the engine cannot run above idle in the start setting - so you cannot run a cold, unlubricated engine at full throttle and ruin the engine. 2) If the crank case is not above a safe level with oil, there is a positive switch in the engine that prevents starting or running. If the engine is running, the switch just shuts it off, thus preventing running the sump completely dry and seizing the engine.


Okay, now it's started, and you can now use the whole range of the throttle, and it takes effect immediately, in any amount you give it. On the Tanzer 22, a notch above idle, or about 1200 RPM, this little engine pushes the boat at 4 knots! If you use more throttle the stern tends to wallow around, dig in, and get rather mushy. I put a 200 lb. man on the bow and the situation remained unchanged. After trying a couple of other tilt settings on the motor, it seems that the boat is just the same, and it really seems most manueverable and res­ponsive at this setting. The stern is level and the lower unit of the motor stayed in the water without difficulty, even with 4 of us in the cockpit (which tells me that the motor bracket is at the right height as it comes from Tanzer).


The Honda with the long shaft is 45" long, and even over 2' swells stayed in the water. The 3 blade prop. is standard with the long shaft model, and is a 9.4 x 8.3 pitch. I feel it is well suited to the boat and the engine, and provides plenty of power with great gas mileage. In waters with less surface swells the boat would go just a bit faster with very little increase in the throttle setting. But, again, as you get up to about 4 or 5 knots the boat wants to wallow around and no amount of throttle will do much good.


The engine is water cooled and has a thermostat that keeps the cooling water at a set temperature, just like your automobile. It runs with an over the side discharge that is tepid to the touch. As soon as the engine has run about 2 minutes, it will idle without any choke at all.


When you pop the engine cover off, you can check the oil level in the sump with a screw-in dipstick. The sump takes regular 10W30 motor oil, as does your car, and needs 1.4 imp. pints of oil (0.8 litres). The lower unit takes a standard SAE 90 outboard gear oi1, 0.32 imp.pint (0.18 litres). All the working parts of the throttle linkage are very stout, and all stainless steel. All the bolts in the exterior of the housing are also stainless steel. The engine mounts in four very stout, heavy rubber mounts, encased in steel, with the bolts all stainless. On the top you can remove 3 small bolts and replace the starting rope in no time. If you move to the back of the engine, re~ove 4 polts, off comes the head, and you can work on the valves, pistons, and head without completely disassembling the whole engine.


The fuel tank that comes as part of the package is 3.4 US gallons, with an attached tool kit which has in it a 1 pt. bottle of engine oil, a start­ing rope, 1 spark plug. 3 wrenches, 3 screw drivers, 1 pair of pliers, 1 plug wrench and a tool bag to keep it all together. The tank has a fuel gauge on the top, and an on-off control, with the regular bulb and hose to attach to the engine. The engine connection is identical to the Evinrude connection, so if you wanted a larger fuel tank you could get a standard 6 gallon tank, fit it with the Evinrude fuel connection on the end of the hose, and there would be no parts problems to solve.


Soundsgreat, doesn't it? How much does this little beauty cost? Here in the US with the long shaft and 3 bladed prop, it is $480 INCLUDING tax. A 9.9 Evinrude or Johnson with long shaft and 3 bladed prop costs $570, and the 6 HP runs about $440. So I would say it is at least competitive; and, in the long run, even a bargain.


On the mounting clamp for the engine are 2 spare shear pins, and cotter pins, to facilitate a shear pin change if needed. The engine can be tilted when not in use either 35 or 70 degrees; and when the mount is at 35 degrees with the bracket raised, the unit is still in the water slightly, so it is better to tilt it to the 70 degree setting. Under way all controls are easily reached, and the engine canb be locked in a strainght fore and aft position with a friction lock bolt. There is almost no vibration at any speed, so I doubt that it would ever move. The rudder doesn't foul the prop, and the throttle control will stay where it's set indefinitly. The unit weighs 70 lbs., but it is not hard to handle. I think you can expect to get 25 miles per gallon, depend­ing on conditions, how clean your huil is, etc.


Stuart Hamilton, sail no. 216 has also written us praising the Honda. He believes it is possible to get some kind of generator attach­ment for recharging the battery, and promises to let us know what he can find out.

Stuart is looking to buy a good used no.1 genoa. He also wonders if anyone has built and used, or bought and used, a single-axle traller, and would appreciate your opinions, comments, advice. Find him at

278 Keetwaten Ave. Toronto, Ontario. Oh- and he'd like to hear from anyone who has built a permanent holding tank of fiberglass in the bow.


Phil Choquette, with his terrific Honda article, also sent us some news from out west. A new marine will be finished in August in Oak Harbor, Washington. It wi11 have 300+ covered slips, 130 open slips and covered storage on a ramp area for owners who store their boats on their trailers. If you remember from the last newsletter, Phil's boat had an unfortunate encounter with the rocks in a storm. He is really pleased with the repairs the Tanzer people out west did for him. There is no sign of the damage, and his boat is now even stronger than before. All repairs were thoroughly explained to him, and evidently he learned a great deal about fiberglass techniques in the process of having all his questions answered. He has nothing but the highest praise for the Tanzer people there, ann their whole organization.


Phil is going to try and start a Fleet in the area. . . . In the Good Ideas Dept. he suggests Class Association Jacket and/or blazer patches. And large order purchasing of gear, fittings, etc. by the Class Associa­tion so that substantial savings can be passed on to members.


DON CRANDALL makes his own cotter pins, for pennies. He buys SS rods of the desired diameter, cuts 'em up to the proper lengths, drills a hole in each end of each hunk - through which he puts a split ring.


The unbeatable, uncatchable fast-goer Ted Bowser spoke at one of the winter T22 seminars. He seemingly parted with every secret - some of them surprising, all of them enlightening. This evening was definatfJy the high point of the seminars, and the only reason it wasn't perfect is that every single T22 owner in the world wasn't there. So that those of you who live elsewhere won't be deprived, we're going to give here a complete summary of Ted's advice. The wind speeds given are an indication of what to do approximatdy when but are not to be construed as a need to keep your eyes glued to an anenometer. Most of the discussion was devoted to beating.



Up to 12 MPH winds: keep your weight to windard, and forward . . . traveller amidships . . . sails full. . . leeches tight. . . flatten sails if (or only) the sea is calm. . . 0" mast rake. . . jib halyard taught. . . boat at 5 degree heel.


At 13 MPH winds rake mast 5". Ted does this be moving the toggle from the backstay to the forestay. Yes, he sometimes does it underway. But Ted has a unique set of nerves tnd abilities. . . For heavy seas, deep your sails fuller. For 14 MPH winds, flatten sails, ease traveller slightly and tighten foot and leech on genoa as they will have loosened up. . . At 15 MPH apply fair cunningham on Main Genoa - sheet in the jenny until it just touches the spreaders. At 16 MPH ease your

traveller 1/4 and reduce the sag that will appear in the jib luff. Or tighten the backstay. At 17 MPH rake mast 10", let out the traveller 1/2 feather through puffs and when heeling excessively. You're sti11 with the no. 1 jenny.


At 18 MPH, using your no .1 jenny, move the fairlead back 2” and keep it about 2” off the spreaders. Soften the leeches and allow sail to twist - let out 6" on main sheet so boom lifts. Decrease draft to flat, smooth curves with substantial cunningham and outhaul tight - but don't put in stree creases by over tightening.


19 MFH - change to your no. 2 genoa and now you can carry more power in your main, so ease the main cunningham and outhaul. Sail with tight leeches and foots and move weight slightly aft in heavy seas. At 20 MPH with your no.2 jenny, sail with the traveller out about ¼.  21 MPH - sail free in heavy sea, and sail close in light seas. Play the traveller in puffs to keep the boat flat.


22 MPH - Maintain boat speed at all costs, or you'll accidentally fall on to other tack or get knocked down. Feather when boat heels excessively. 23 MPH ease leeches and allow twisting of sail . . . traveller out 1/2. 24 MPH - HOLD ON . . . traveller out 3/4.


25 MPH - Change to no.3 (working jib), and with this smaller sail, bring back the traveller to 1/2. Increase rake as much as possible and with a light crew, start reefing. 27 MPH - traveller 3/4. 30 MPH ­reef main to maintain not more than 30 degree heel.


Further notes: if you're beating in a big wind and looking for comfort use your no.3 jib and roll in a big reef. Use your storm jib off the wind; but it doesn't have enough power on the wind . . . if you don't

have a no.2 genoa, at 18 MPH winds you can go to the no.3 jib if the seas are light. But in heavy seas, stick with the no.1 jenny for power to get through the seas, and ease the main sheet, use the traveller and let the sail twist. . . Ted emphasized keeping the belly of the main parallel with the leech of the genoa, and of using flat sails when the seas are flat - even in winds as light as 5 MPH . . . with excessive angles of heel (30-40 degrees) the lee bow digs in and results in a lot of weather helm, rudder dragging in the water. Don't sail with your windows under water, in other words.



Move genoa fairlead aft, but not too much or the top of the sail falls off. You can move it further aft to stop excessive heeling. Keep the boat as flat as possible. Flatten sails for stability - use alot of boom vang. It is a mistake to carry too much jib, thinking that on the reaches you'll make up for being overpowered on the beat. A bigger jib slows you down because it is too full, like a bucket, and can't get rid of the wind as can a smaller jib, so it stalls, Ted said.



Fly your spinnaker flat and keep it in front of the boat . . . never sail by the lee. . . drop the spinnaker only dead down wind, behind the main. . . Gybe at maximum speed, the resultant wind on your sails is at minimum pressure because of your boat speed. . . Keep spin head 6” off the mast at all times. To prevent that dread oscillation, when the spin dangles the boat like a pendulum, keep the spinaker flat, with the pole aft, and center the spin over the bow.



Set up upper shrouds without lowers so that it is straight, ie. no rake and so plumb line centered. Then adjust lowers so that when you sight up the mast it is straight. Set up uppers and fore and backstays as tight as possible by hand plus 4 - 6 turns. Set up lowers as tight as possible, period, by hand. No extra turns. In heavy weather set up everything harder and don't use too much vang upwind.




At another seminar, Tanzer Industries again helped us out, and we heard from Eric Spencer. He spoke of the need to maintain awareness of proposed safety legislation and regulations so that we can express our opinions as a Class Association and as individuals.


He also spoke on safety. An axe I'm always sharpening. There are severul ways in which it is interesting to spend money; on car repairs, for the dentist and on life saving equipment such as uncomfortable life jackets, ­expensive, bulky life rings. Especially as we never can admit the possibility of our own mortality. BUT. . .


That cushion you plan to throw overboard when someone slips off the foredeck is unlikely to be seen by him - or by you. And it's not going to be on deck anyway, if it's likely to get soaked. Neither is it easy to see, or swim up to, a life ring scudding down wind. The life ring should be accompanied with a small sea anchor, a whistle, a light if you sail at night. And you can build a man overboard pole to also attach to it for about $2. Bamboo fishing poles are 99cents at Pascals in Montreal. At the top you attach a bright orange flag, at the bottom, a weight. Up a bit from the end you insert the lower end of the pole through the center half of one of those cheap styrofoam bumpers and shave the bottom part of it to a conical shape. Tape to your back stay 2 pieces of plastic tubing - one in which you insert the top of the pole to stow it, and one for the bottom end. (Thank-you, Donald Street, Jr.) And before you think of hauling a victim back on board by scooping him up in a fold of sail and winching him back on deck - try it. I hear it’s great sport. With the slightest tip in the sail, the swimmer is jettisoned back into the water because the sail material is so slippery. Safety harnesses are NOT just for ocean racers. And, please fellas, teach your wife to handle the boat competently enough so that she can round up ud rescue you under difficult conditions!




Dr. Douglass W. Walker, sail no. 272.


My boat was moored in its ustual habitat last summer, Hatchet Cove, Freindship, Maine, and was hit amidships one evening by a young lobsterman in an l8 foot, heavy lapstrake construction skiff with a 40 HP outboard with the throttle wide open. Fortunately, no one was aboard my boat at the time.


The next morning the young man told me what had happened, and with fear and trepidation I covered the mile or so to the mooring site and rowed out in my dinghy expecting the worst.


I could hardly believe my eyes when I found that the only damage was to the rubber rub rail, which had been knocked off at the site of impact; and at this point the fiberglass shelf had been splintered for a length of about 1 1/2 feet. There was absolutly no structural damage to the hull, although everythfng in the cabin was knocked galley west and the out­board had been knocked down from its tilted position to a vertical stance.


The young man's boat had been split wide open from stem to stern and was essentially a total loss.


Needless to say, an experience like this leaves one very impressed with the strength of the Tanzer hull. The T22 is a great boat!



Sandy And Jean MacDougall (MORE T22ers graduated from a Lightning! Their T22 is named "Blue Blazesll”) have made an alternate companionway upper with four lights. (More details, please, Sandy?) They tell of a trailer made by John Stewart Trailers of Brampton, Ontario - a "rugged piece of equipment incorporating a surge braking system, and the way in which the tongue actuates the brake master-cylinder-piston is re­versed to provide an extendable tongue of some 6'. Our trailer is of this make and launching and retrieving are remarkably easy. Minor alterations in bolster height will accomodate either fin keel or Keel/ centerboard models. Cost is about $200 more than the one written up by J.T.V. but still is realistic. Without a bow eye, bring mooring lines forward outside the shrouds from stern cleats and tie them tight­ly together under the stem head. Hook into this with the cable from the trailer winch. This bridle keeps the boat from sliding off the trailer. By the way, this trailer tows well at over 60 MPH but I don't go over 55 because I'm chicken." Sandy and Jean can be found moored at Booth's Harbor on Long Point Bay, Ontario.



A GOOD IDEA from Janice and Ted Strauss, sail no. 313. Their boat is named "Neltemi", after the Glack wind which "air-conditions" the Greek Isles. They have come up with a very practical way to set up a Sea­Swing stove. Using the LOWER HALF of the TOP drop board (companionway) as a pattern, they cut a piece of Marine plywood the same shape (width) and about 6" in height. The stove mounting bracket is fastened to the plywood, and depending on which way you put the board in the companion­way, you can have the stove either in the cockpit or in the cabin.


JOHN CHAHTERS tells us that if you want all locks on your boat to have the same combination, you can place an order for such locks with Simpson's (Montreal) and when they are placing an order, they will include yours. They are Dudley Combination locks - the type used by school kids on lockers. Probably any large store would do the same.



Ken Wolvington, sail no. 380 asks what to do about that rust that bubbles up on many boats. Since, for sure, you all use Vlnelast anti­fouling paint, the comments of Herbert W. Evans, Jr., President of Woolsey Marine Industries might be of some interest:


The anti-fouling coating must not come in direct contact with the bare metal of a cast iron keel. If they are in contact, the anti-fouling protection is immediately cancelled and the copper in the coating will attack and pit the iron.


To prevent such electrolytic action, the bare metal must first be prined with the proper priner or an anti-corrosive coating sufficient to develop a di-electric or insulation between the copper and the under­lying metal. Again it is important that the primer, anti-corrosive and anti-fouling coatings be compatible to insure good adhesion and protection.


In all cases of paints - especially antifouling paints, you must be very careful to follow the manufacturer's instructions. There are large differences between the products of one company and those of another company.



DENIS MACOOLAGHAN, sail no. 104 has put a teak strip near the on-off switches for the electrics to prevent accidently turning them on and draining the battery. BRIAN BEST, sail no. 142 has put in a master switch for similar protection.


DON CRANDALL has found a useful product. “I recently came across a relatively new product put out by the 3Mcompany called SCOTCH BRITE that is excellent for cleaning teak, stubborn stains, waterline slime, etc. It is made in 6" x 9" pads that are about 1/4 - 3/8" thick. I bought four pads of different abbrasiveness, which are color coded. The finest is white, next is grey, then brick, and the coarsest is green. The grey pad worked very well on teak without soap. Using a mild non­scratch abrasive powder like Bon Ami would make the job that much easier."


DID YOU KNOW THAT distress signals and flares can deteriorate with time, or if exposed to air or dampness?



If being passed by larger trucks, etc., causes your trailer to sway, try the following. As you see it approach, slow down. As the truck draws abreast of your trailer, accelerate. Under no exception should you apply your brakes.